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Browsing by author: Jessica

Hilde Soliani Una Tira L’Altra & Conaffetto ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Jessica on 3 August 2017 18 Comments

Hilde Soliani Una Tira L'Altra & Conaffetto

You know the whole “scent-is-memory” thing? Sometimes I get a little tired of hearing about it, science notwithstanding. I don’t even know whether it affects me, when we’re talking strictly about perfume. A specific fragrance can remind me of people and prior scenarios involving that same fragrance, of course — Guerlain Shalimar will always remind me of a certain eccentric aunt, and patchouli oil of a dear college friend — but there’s no memory to account for my love of roses and violets or my distaste for pear or indolic jasmine notes, for example.

Food and scent and memory, on the other hand — there you’ve got me. I realized again how susceptible I am to the combination of smell, taste and storytelling when I recently sampled a few scents from niche perfumer Hilde Soliani…

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Rodin 3 ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 27 July 2017 14 Comments

Rodin 3

A few years ago, I spotted Linda Rodin walking briskly along Christopher Street in Manhattan. She looked slim and energetic, clad in minimalist black (including dark sunglasses), with her silver hair pulled back in a twist and her smile accented by shocking pink lipstick. I admired her style, and I privately regretted (not for the first time) that I just couldn’t enjoy her signature Olio Lusso facial oil. My skin likes its formula, but my nose detests its raw, indolic jasmine scent.

When Rodin released her first fragrance, Rodin Perfume, I skipped it because it was supposed to smell just like Olio Lusso. (Shudder.) Her second fragrance, Bis, somehow escaped my notice. Her most recent launch, Rodin 3, caught my attention with its promise of being “a personal throwback to her favorite breezy, fresh scents of the 1970s. . .lingering gently with a touch of nostalgia.” I added it to my sample order list…

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Buly 1803 Alabaster Alexandrie ~ home fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 20 July 2017 15 Comments

I’ve limited my visits to department stores over the past year or so, but reports of the new l’Officine Universelle Buly 1803 boutique lured me back to Bergdorf Goodman on one of my rare visits to midtown Manhattan. Buly 1803 didn’t disappoint. The products (skincare, body care, home fragrance, etc.) have an “old world” feel. Boxes are labeled with handwritten inscriptions in pen-and-ink. Bottles are decorated with images borrowed from circa-1800 illustrations. It all feels like a hybrid of Santa Maria Novella and Cire Trudon (which makes sense, since one of the founders formerly worked at the latter brand), channeled through Napoleonic France. (You can read about the brand’s background here.)

I had a hard time narrowing down my choices, but I ended up bringing home one of Buly 1803’s signature “Alabasters.” As the brand explains, the name Alabaster is inspired by alabastron…

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Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Bluedaisy & Poppy ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Jessica on 6 July 2017 4 Comments

poppies and daisy

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz has been around longer than most indie perfumers — long enough, in fact, that she recently began a “retrograde files” fragrance series, relaunching and re-imagining discontinued scents from her back catalog. She wrote in a recent blog post, “Passionflower Perfume Poems was a small collection that I started releasing around 1999–2000 with a young, ‘millennial’ audience in mind.” Well, the Poems are back, with slight reformulations and name changes. I looked forward to trying a few because I remember them from the mid-2000s but I drained my sample vials years ago.

First, here’s Bluedaisy, formerly known as Daisy or Daisy Be Young. (I can guess why it would be difficult to re-release a fragrance under the name Daisy in 2017…)

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Vilhelm Parfumerie Harlem Bloom ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 29 June 2017 8 Comments

Vilhelm Parfumerie Harlem Bloom

I’ve tried a few fragrances from niche house Vilhelm Parfumerie, and although I often enjoy their names and descriptions, the scents themselves have never quite hit the emotional sweet spot that makes me want to own them. However, Kevin and Robin have both praised recent releases from Vilhelm, so I’m back to try Harlem Bloom.

This fragrance is inspired by Manhattan’s Harlem neighborhood and “depicts blossoms in an urban jungle, intertwined among the brownstone buildings that line upper New York City.” (Um, or upper Manhattan, at least.) It includes notes of saffron, angelica leaf, violet, damask rose, ebony and “wild leather.” I haven’t been able to find out which perfumer developed it for Vilhelm, but I’m guessing it may have Jérôme Epinette…

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