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Browsing by author: Jessica

Anna Sui Thorn of a Rose, Utopia Mist & Mystic Luna ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Jessica on 7 February 2025 13 Comments

If you were to travel back in time twenty years or so and see what I was doing on a random weekday afternoon, you might find me browsing at Parfumerie Douglas in West Philadelphia. I might have been buying a nail file or a sparkly hair clip, and I was certainly sniffing my way through the perfume section, especially a shelf holding Sui Dreams, Sui Love and, best of all, Anna Sui’s eponymous debut fragrance from 1999. That powdery rose scent in its black-and-purple, rose-embellished bottle is still a favorite of mine.

Anna Sui recently celebrated the twenty-fifth anniversary of her brand’s foray into fine fragrance by launching a quintet of new scents: the Wild Wonder collection. All five were developed by perfumer Jérôme Épinette, who has worked on Sui’s fragrances since 2017’s Fantasia, and the face of the collection is Scarlett White, the daughter of model and singer-songwriter Karen Elson. Elson herself is a longtime Sui “muse,” and there’s a feeling of generational continuity with the packaging for Wild Wonder, as well: the gilt rosebud cap is shaped just like the black rosebud cap of the original Anna Sui perfume (now known as Anna Sui Classic)…

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Cra-yon Art Life, Snif Natural Talent & Maison Millais New York Nostalgia ~ short fragrance reviews

Posted by Jessica on 12 December 2024 4 Comments

Way back in January 2021, Kevin wrote that 2020 had been the year of overpriced, overhyped scents: “Never have I smelled so many $250, $350, $450 perfumes that reminded me of $10 scented candles.” Based on various online “gift guides” that have scrolled past my eyes lately, I can’t say that late 2024 is looking any different. I’m less and less impressed by arbitrarily high prices. Here at NST we’ve been saying “under $100 is the new ‘free'” since 2009; in that spirit, here are three fragrances I’ve encountered over the past year or so that live up to their descriptions, feel accessible to scent-curious shoppers and sell for less than $100 for a full-sized bottle. 

First: I initially came across the Cra-yon fragrance line at the Liberty department store in London and made a mental note to find out more later. Cray-on started showing up in the United States soon after that trip, and I picked up a bottle of Art Life at a perfume swap event in New York. (Swap meet-ups are the Gen Z version of the early-2000s message-board swaps!) Cra-yon was “founded  by Christine and Niclas Lydeen, French/Swedish fragrance pioneers” and comes across as a welcoming, upbeat brand that doesn’t take its own cool-kid vibes too seriously…

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Regime des Fleurs Fleur Eclair, Arquiste Almond Suede & Isabelle Larignon Milky Dragon ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Jessica on 22 November 2024 12 Comments

Good evening, Now Smell This: it has recently come to my attention (to paraphrase actor Drew Droege playing “Chloé Sevigny”) that I crave gourmand perfumes. At least, that’s what a dozen “trend pieces” have recently told me. The trend cycle goes around and around, of course: people have liked wearing vanilla-accented and/or sweet-smelling fragrances for a long time, whether you look back a century to Guerlain Shalimar or just twenty-odd years to Bath & Body Works Warm Vanilla Sugar, Aquolina Pink Sugar and Britney Spears Fantasy (with its then-novel “cupcake accord”). Where to begin, if you’re curious about some of the latest gourmand scents? New releases are spawning at an unprecedented rate these days, and I can’t even pretend to be fully up-to-date, but here are two freshly “baked” fragrances that I’m enjoying, plus one from 2021 that has also captured my imagination. 

I’ve been trying for a while to make the term “fleurmand” catch on, but it hasn’t, which is a shame because I’d love to use it here to describe Régime des Fleurs Fleur Éclair…

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Arquiste Venice Rococo & Frederic Malle Heaven Can Wait ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Jessica on 26 September 2024 18 Comments

I’m writing this review on the first day of autumn, and I have to admit that I started stocking up on my fall basics a few weeks ago. Although I don’t need more fragrance in the same way I might need more black tights or a new coat, I do think about updating my scent selections for cooler weather, and maybe adding something new to the mix. Even in the constant onslaught of new releases, there are a few brands that still get my attention; two of them are Frédéric Malle’s Editions de Parfums and Arquiste.   

Last year, Frédéric Malle launched Heaven Can Wait, developed by perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena. I can’t believe it’s been a whole year since I first tried this perfume; I initially sniffed it from a lab bottle in a Editions des Parfums boutique, then sprayed it on myself at a launch event, then purchased a travel-size bottle…and somehow never got around to reviewing it, but it’s back in my rotation this fall…

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4160 Tuesdays Hush Hush, Sora Dora Mallow & Dawn Spencer Hurwitz The Stratosphere ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Jessica on 24 July 2024 9 Comments

Once in a while I do an online search for a particular fragrance or other scented product and stumble across one of my old Now Smell this reviews. I recently took a look at a post titled A Summer of Violets (2016!) and laughed because I’m still purchasing and enjoying several of the items I listed in that review — my tastes have remained consistent. I’ve also been trying some new or new-to-me violet perfumes this summer, so this must be a favorite warm-weather note for me, despite its springtime connotations. Here are three violet-focused scents I’ve tried lately.

A couple of months ago, a visit to a well-stocked perfume boutique gave me a chance to browse some of 4160 Tuesday’s extensive catalogue; I left with a bottle of Hush Hush…

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