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Browsing by author: Jessica

Hermetica Multilotus, Rosefire, Patchoulight, Sandalsun & Greenlion ~ short fragrance reviews

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Hermetica is a new niche fragrance line that launched in 2018; it offers “a collection of molecular fragrances inspired by the ancient practice of alchemy” and was founded by John and Clara Molloy (the duo behind Memo and Floraïku), who decided to “create a revolutionary collection by not choosing between natural ingredients or synthetic molecules but using a combination of the two.” Additionally, Hermetica seems to be claiming the fragrances’ alcohol-free base as another innovation.

I’m no chemist, but I’m raising my eyebrows for a few reasons…

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Nomenclature Fluo_ral ~ fragrance review

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If you’re already familiar with niche line Nomenclature, you know that their fragrances pay homage to various significant aroma chemicals, “clandestine infiltrators that spark off fragrant revolutions.” Nomenclature’s latest release, Fluo_ral, was developed by perfumer Nathalie Feisthauer to showcase the synthetic note Calone®. (I won’t be including that registered trademark for the rest of this review, but since Nomenclature uses it, there you go!) Additional notes include rhubarb, blackcurrant bud, tomato leaf, rose, pink pepper, Somalian incense and cedar.

Don’t be confused by the pun-ny name: Fluo_ral is not a floral perfume…

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Boxwalla Perfumer Series x Sigil Scents ~ fragrance review

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In December 2015 (was it really that long ago?!) I wrote a review of Boxwalla, a subscription service that offered surprise samplings of beauty products (or books, or films — multiple possibilities!). Now Boxwalla has introduced The Perfumer Series, limited edition boxes that showcase independent perfumers and their creations through sampling and shared exploration. Their first collaborator is Sigil Scent, an indie, all-natural fragrance brand based in Los Angeles.

Boxwalla’s “scent experience” of Sigil Scents consists of two phases. For the first phase, the “Learning/Discovery Phase,” you receive samples of four fragrances from Sigil Scent. For the second phase, “The Full Bottle Experience,” you decide which of the four scents is your favorite and submit your choice to receive a full bottle of it. Between the two phases, you’re invited to view and read conversations with Sigil Scents perfumer Patrick Kelly (via social media and email newsletters) as you try each scent…

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Eau d’Italie Rosa Greta, Ex Nihilo Rose Hubris, MCMC Fragrances Maine, Atelier des Ors Rose Omeyyade ~ short fragrance reviews

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I think many of us have a box or bowl of perfume samples that we’ve tried once or twice, weren’t quite sure about and plan to try again someday — the “purgatory basket,” as Robin dubbed it years ago. I can never resist trying rose-inspired fragrances, even ones that I have a sneaking suspicion I might not actually like, so I inevitably end up with more than a few semi-forgotten rose samples rattling around my desk.

Here are brief reviews of four scents I recently plucked from sample limbo and gave another wearing…

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A Lab on Fire Hallucinogenic Pearl ~ fragrance review

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I like to check in with A Lab On Fire on a regular basis, just to see what they’ve been up to. This brand has won my respect over the years, not just for what they do but for what they don’t do. They work with top-notch perfumers to offer unusual but wearable fragrances with quirky back-stories — some of the characteristics that originally attracted me to niche perfumery. Meanwhile, the brand maintains an opacity and reserve that are all but extinct in 2019: no interviews with photogenic creative directors (indeed, no photos of the creative director at all!), no launch parties, no ingratiating social media presence, no peppy PR emails, no free bottles sent to “influencers.”

I’ve owned What We Do In Paris Is Secret and Rose Rebelle Respawn for a long time, and I’ve liked nearly all the other fragrances I’ve sampled from this house, even if I’m chronically lagging behind the newer releases…

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