• About
  • Login to comment
    • Bluesky
    • RSS
    • Twitter

Now Smell This

a blog about perfume

Menu ▼
  • Perfume Reviews
  • New Perfumes
  • Archives
Browsing by author: Jessica

Francesca Bianchi Angel’s Dust ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 28 May 2020 20 Comments

A recent Friday Community Project made me think about one of my favorite fragrance sub-genres, which I’ll call “vintage vanity” — perfumes that evoke the scent of lipsticks and the spilled residue of dusting powder, and sometimes even the wood of an old dressing table. I have a few favorites in this category: Frédéric Malle Lipstick Rose and L’Artisan Parfumeur Drôle de Rose are probably my top choices, but I’ve also tried and enjoyed Gabriella Chieffo Camaheu, Chanel Misia, Maison Martin Margiela Replica Lipstick On — you get the idea.

For this fragrance, indie perfumer Francesca Bianchi wears her influences proudly on her scented sleeve: she mentions Lipstick Rose’s “‘make-up memories” as well as État Libre d’Orange Putain des Palaces’ “feminine seduction and decadent dirty sensuality” as two favorites that inspired the creation of Angel’s Dust…

Read the rest of this article »

Arquiste Misfit ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 14 May 2020 19 Comments

Earlier this year, Arquiste celebrated its tenth anniversary and launched Misfit, a patchouli fragrance developed by perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux. And one morning soon after Misfit’s launch, I met with Arquiste founder Carlos Huber in his Manhattan apartment and we spoke in his dining room, which also serves as a non-typical and beautifully appointed meeting-space.

Once I’d had a chance to admire some of the room’s details (pieces of black jasperware, a cluster of decorative obelisks, wallpaper patterned with a fantastic scene of Indian gardens), Carlos gave me a run-through of Misfit’s notes and backstory. Our conversation drifted into a few tangents about nineteenth-century perfumery, fashion and architecture. I’ve always admired Arquiste’s poetic yet accurate use of historical narratives (I can’t think of any other perfumery whose website includes a bibliography!), and it was a treat to chat with someone whose interests overlap so much with mine.

While I’ve been trying and trying to write this review over the past month, and making little progress, I gradually realized that the memory of that visit has been haunting me. As we enter our ninth week of lockdown here in the New York City metro area, that morning now seems inconceivable…

Read the rest of this article »

Keap Northlands candle ~ home fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 2 April 2020 11 Comments

So…a lot has happened since I wrote my last review here. Due to the coronavirus pandemic, New York City and the surrounding areas have been on “lockdown” for the past couple weeks; social gatherings were discouraged even earlier. My husband and I are both working from home, scheduling video-chats with family and friends, doing some pleasure-reading and playing with our two cats. It’s a stressful time, but we’re grateful that we’re safe and sound.

Since I’m spending nearly all my time inside, it’s a happy coincidence that I started exploring the Keap candle line last month. Keap is a Brooklyn-based, online-only business, offering candles with “nature-inspired scents created alongside legendary master perfumer Christophe Laudamiel…”

Read the rest of this article »

House of Cherry Bomb Iris Oud, Alchemologie Nethermead, Regime des Fleurs Willows ~ short fragrance reviews

Posted by Jessica on 20 February 2020 9 Comments

Although I tend to wear rose fragrances of all kinds when I’m “off-duty” and not testing something to review here, I also keep an eye and a nose out for interesting violet perfumes. Some of my violet-y favorites over the years have been soliflores (e.g., Annick Goutal Violette) but others are more complex or quirky. I also enjoy encountering violet when I don’t necessarily expect it, or when it’s included way down in a list of notes but turns out to be one of the stars of the composition.

House of Cherry Bomb Iris Oud is a recent example of the “stealth violet” experience for me…

Read the rest of this article »

Diptyque Eau Capitale ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 6 February 2020 24 Comments

It’s February, and Diptyque has launched a new fragrance named Eau Capitale for its permanent collection, as well as a new limited edition scented candle called Paris en Fleur. All these products (Eau de Parfum and solid perfume for Eau Capitale, candles and scented wax oval for Paris En Fleur) are decorated with truly beautiful Art Nouveau-inspired patterns that feature “emblematic roses.” I have to admit, this launch is all very well-timed for Valentine’s Day, yet it’s not your average candy-sweet throwaway treat.

Eau Capitale is an homage to Diptyque’s hometown…

Read the rest of this article »

« Newer articles
Older articles »

Advertisement

Search

Recent reviews

Atelier Cologne Love Osmanthus
Moschino Toy Boy
Arquiste Misfit
Diptyque Eau Capitale
Zoologist Bee
Parfum d’Empire Immortelle Corse
Comme des Garcons Series 10 Clash
Frédéric Malle Rose & Cuir
L’Artisan Parfumeur Le Chant de Camargue
Yves Saint Laurent Grain de Poudre
Régime des Fleurs Chloë Sevigny Little Flower
Chanel 1957
Gallivant Los Angeles
Amouage Portrayal Woman

Blogroll

Bois de Jasmin
Grain de Musc
Perfume Posse
The Non-Blonde
More blogs...

Perfumista lists

100 fragrances every perfumista should try
And 25 more fragrances every perfumista should smell
50 masculine fragrances every perfumista should try
26 vintage fragrances every perfumista should try
25 rose fragrances every perfumista should try
11 Cheap Perfumes Beauty Outsiders Love

Favorite posts

The Great Perfume Reduction Plan
Why I Love Old School Chypres
New to perfume and want to learn more?
How to make fragrance last through the day
Fragrance concentrations: sorting it all out
On reformulations, or why your favorite perfume doesn’t smell like it used to
How to get fragrance samples
Perfume for Life: How Long Will Your Fragrance Collection Last?

Upcoming

List of upcoming Friday projects

6 January ~ damage poll

31 January ~ winter reading poll

Back to Top

Home
Archives
About Now Smell This :: Privacy Policy
Perfume Reviews
New Perfumes
General Perfume Articles
The Monday Mail

Glossary of Perfume Terms
Perfume FAQ
Perfume Books

Noses ~ Perfumers A-E :: F-K :: L-S :: T-Z

Perfume Houses A-B :: C :: D-E :: F-G
H-J :: K-L :: M :: N-O :: P :: Q-R :: S
T :: U-Z

Copyright © 2005-2026 Now Smell This. All rights reserved.