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Browsing by author: Angela

Cool Hunting: Perfume Trends

Posted by Angela on 9 February 2010 194 Comments

Dynasty!

The 1980s are back. Not the economic boom or Duran Duran, but the shoulder pads, layered hair, and eel skin bags. Fresh from an evening of watching Dynasty, I spent time this afternoon rummaging through a trendy clothing resale shop, and I flipped past many a sequined blouse and whopper-bow-adorned formal. All that was missing were gashes of coral blush. It got me thinking: could perfume trends turn toward the ’80s? If not, what perfume trends are coming up?

At the counter with my loot, I asked the baby-faced cashier what he thought about perfume. He twirled his Magnum P.I. mustache (popular in these parts now) and said, “I don’t know. I don’t wear odors — no deodorant, nothing. I rely on pheromones.” The sledgehammer style of 1980s perfume won’t gain a lot of ground here.

Right now, perfumes with a silky wood base, or a clean musk and wood dry down, crowd department store shelves….

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Bill Blass Nude ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 1 February 2010 158 Comments

Bill Blass Nude perfume

For a perfume lover, discovering a terrific scent that has flown under many people’s radar is exciting. The thrill amplifies when the perfume only costs about $10 a bottle. Now that my backup bottle is safely on its way, I’m ready to share my latest discovery: Bill Blass Nude.

I first heard of Nude years ago when I read Laren Stover’s The Bombshell Manual of Style’s chapter on Bombshell perfumes. Most of the fragrances she lists are grand old perfumes, including the numbered Chanels, Guerlain Mitsouko and L’Heure Bleue, Rochas Femme, and Lanvin My Sin. Among these heavyweights is Nude, which the manual describes as “a striking floral composition” and creating “a mental state of near undress”.

Still, Bill Blass? Wrack my brain as I might, all I could call forth were images of conservatively dressed women of a certain age with small, groomed dogs. Not really the feel I’m going for…

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Penhaligon’s Amaranthine ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 25 January 2010 129 Comments

Penhaligon's Amaranthine

From the looks of so many celebrity fragrances, it must be easy to turn out a tropical, fruity floral fragrance. It’s almost become a cliché. Not that there’s anything wrong with a jumble of white flowers, roses, and grape juice, it’s just that it gets boring. In Penhaligon’s Amaranthine Eau de Parfum, perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour shakes up the tropical fragrance game by adding a distinctly sweet, milky note; a kick of spice; and a healthy portion of naughtiness to the fruity, banana-inflected flowers most people associate with tropical fragrances. The result is a sort of tropical-oriental, like Jayne Mansfield Jane Russell in Macao.

According to Wikipedia, amaranthine either relates to amaranth, a gorgeous plant with dripping reddish-purple stalks from which you can harvest grain; or an imaginary flower that never fades. Another online definition said amaranthine stands for “eternal beauty”. Penhaligon’s website lists Amaranthine’s top notes as green tea, white freesia, banana tree leaf, coriander seed oil, and cardamom absolute; its heart notes as rose, carnation, clove oil, orange blossom, ylang ylang oil, and Egyptian jasmine absolute; and its base as musk, vanilla, sandalwood, condensed milk, and tonka bean absolute. (Props to Penhaligon’s for listing perfumers on their website.)

When first on my skin, Amaranthine smells like green tea and kiwi with a trace of cumin…

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Perfume is the Rodney Dangerfield of the Art World

Posted by Angela on 18 January 2010 206 Comments

No matter what our thought bubbles read, most of us know better than to stand in front of a painting by Jackson Pollock and say aloud, “I don’t know what the big deal is. So some guy splatters paint on canvas. That’s art?” Even if our attention wanders during the second half of a symphony concert, we still suspect the music has merit. Maybe we’re not accustomed to a couple of hours of Mahler, but we give it a fair try. Most of us would jump at the chance to try a sip of a Premier Cru Bordeaux, even if we weren’t 100% sure we could distinguish it from a supermarket Cab-Merlot blend. We assume we don’t know everything about every kind of art. We want to develop our senses.

On the other hand, many people who wouldn’t miss a Whitney Biennial will flatly say, “I don’t like perfume,” and it never even occurs to them they’ve shut out a whole realm of art. They’re slamming an entire sense. Perfume is the Rodney Dangerfield of the art world…

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Amouage Epic Woman ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 12 January 2010 175 Comments

Amouage Epic Woman

I wouldn’t call Amouage an “edgy” house. Its perfumes aren’t likely to surprise or tantalize conceptually. Still, Amouage fragrances have presence. Ubar is summer light and laughter; Jubilation 25 is carnal pleasure; Gold is glamour slashed with femininity; and Lyric Woman is passionate and a little bit moody. Amouage fragrances smell expensive, lush, and carefully crafted, and the house seems to ignore trends in favor of making perfume to suit the seasoned person. Ingénues should look elsewhere.

Amouage’s latest release for women, Epic, doesn’t disappoint. But instead of embodying a particular mood, Epic could be the Amouage lover’s daily go-to scent. Amouage’s website characterizes Epic Woman as a “spicy floral oriental” and lists its top notes as cumin, pink bay, cinnamon; its heart as Damascene rose, tea, geranium, jasmine; and its base as amber, musk, guaiac wood, orris, frankincense, oud, patchouli, sandalwood, and vanilla.

Epic is warm, thick, and fuzzy with smooth edges…

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