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Browsing by author: Angela

Roja Dove Enslaved ~ perfume review

Posted by Angela on 17 May 2010 148 Comments

Roja Dove Enslaved fragrance

This is a review of Roja Dove Enslaved Eau de Parfum, but it’s going to take me a moment to get there, so please bear with me.

Not long ago I heard a perfumer disparaged because his work was stale. According to the person I talked to, the perfumer had said what he had to say and wasn’t breaking any new ground with his newest fragrances. I understand this complaint, especially coming from someone who sees perfume as art. We already have so many beautiful fragrances. If you’re not adding to what’s out there, but simply creating more of the same, why bother? I won’t buy new art unless it challenges me and draws me in. I won’t stay up past midnight in a crowded club unless I know I’ll be listening to music that feels fresh and engaging. And I’m certainly tired of the landslide of berry-patchouli or screechy floral-musks out there.

Then, Friday night I was at a coworker’s going away party and I went to the bar to buy the coworker a beer. While I waited, a beefy, biker-type guy sat near me combing his long, red beard. “I like your scent,” he said.

My wrist flew to my nose as I tried to remember what it was. “It’s Jolie Madame,” I said…

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Perfume and Cigarette Smoke

Posted by Angela on 10 May 2010 186 Comments

Lauren Bacall

Once perfume leaves the bottle, it isn’t experienced in a vacuum. When you apply perfume to skin, it mingles with your body chemistry, then radiates into the environment to compete — or harmonize — with the aromas around you. Coffee, car exhaust, thunderstorms, and the brisket you had for lunch all play against your perfume. For some people, cigarette smoke is the biggest competitor to their perfume. For some perfumes, it actually seems to work.

I’m not a smoker. I smoked one cigarette years ago and threw up, and that was the end of that. Still certain fragrances seem to beg for a sheath of cigarette smoke. Supposedly, Ernest Daltroff created Caron Tabac Blond to mask the cigarette smoke lingering on women brazen enough to be smoking just post-World War I. Molinard Habanita was even originally used to scent actual cigarettes. To me, though, perfumes that smell like tobacco don’t necessarily blend with the ozone and nicotine of a burning cigarette…

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Perfume and Enrichment: Not Just for Tigers

Posted by Angela on 3 May 2010 235 Comments

Faberge Tigress

The idea of having a signature scent attracts me. I love thinking that when someone catches a whisper of Guerlain Vol de Nuit he thinks of me, or that my friends associate me with the warm, entrancing aroma left on my coat or suffusing my bedroom. But hey, that’s not going to happen. I haven’t counted lately, but my number of “signature” scents is probably pushing 100.

Now, though, I have a new justification. When I see someone’s eyes start to pop at the sight of my perfume cabinet, I have the perfect reply. “Of course I have lots of perfume,” I’ll say. “Why? For ‘enrichment’, of course.”

To explain, let me take a step back. I have a friend, Ann Littlewood, who used to be a zookeeper. Now she writes terrific mystery novels that take place in the fictional Finley Memorial Zoo. When she heard I like perfume, she mentioned she used to spray fragrance in the tigers’ dens at the zoo. I asked her what perfume she sprayed, and why, and she sent me an answer by email…

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Etat Libre d’Orange Like This ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 26 April 2010 96 Comments

Etat Libre d'Orange Tilda Swinton Like This perfume

Yellow mandarin, ginger, pumpkin accord, immortelle, Moroccan neroli, rose de Grasse, vetiver, heliotrope, and musk. These are the notes of Like This, the latest fragrance from Etat Libre d’Orange. Sounds like a train wreck, doesn’t it? It’s not. Like a vintage Harris tweed woven with threads of pea green, turquoise, putty, and aubergine, it sounds scary but makes a gorgeous blend: untraditional, yet natural — even inevitable — once you experience it.

Inspired by Tilda Swinton and a poem from Rumi, perfumer Mathilde Bijaoui created Like This. Both Swinton and Rumi set a mighty high bar. The Rumi poem talks about the Resurrection and the fragrance of God, as well as relatively minor things like the sky and love. He is such a popular poet and philosopher that quotes from his work probably show up more often than anyone else’s as part of the automatic signature line on emails. Swinton has blazed a singular artistic path of intelligence, sensitivity, and almost extraterrestrial beauty. (April is National Poetry Month. Do yourself a favor and click over to the Etat Libre d’Orange website to hear Swinton read the Rumi poem.)

I imagine Bijaoui looking at the Etat Libre brief, trying to come up with some common theme between the redheaded Swinton and Rumi and hitting on Orange. Orange hair, the orange of the sun, saffron monastic robes, fading day. Then, with this visual inspiration she found a way to connect orange scents: pumpkin, neroli, mandarin, immortelle, and ginger. The crazy thing is, it works…

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Parfums de Nicolai Le Temps d’Une Fete ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 19 April 2010 139 Comments

Narcissus

When I say Parfums de Nicolaï Le Temps d’Une Fête centers on narcissus, some of you might decide right away it’s not for you. So often narcissus spells a crisp, virginal scent better suited to a girl taking her first communion than a full grown woman with a taste for gin. But take a few sniffs, and you might change your mind. Instead of a cloying, sexless flower, Le Temps d’Une Fête smells of warm narcissus cloaked in mossy, animalic notes. Any girl taking her first communion in it would raise suspicions of having spent more time in the hayloft with the stable boy than at home with her rosary.

The Parfums de Nicolaï website lists Le Temps d’Une Fête’s top notes as galbanum, opoponax, and tree moss; its heart as daffodil and narcissus; and its base as sandalwood, patchouli, and oak moss. The house’s perfumer and co-founder, Patricia de Nicolaï, created it in 2006. (Note: the website is as rinky dink as the house’s perfume packaging. I clicked on the link to the Parfums de Nicolaï home page only to find it blank. But if you root around in Google, you can find a link to something deeper in the website and access the site’s content that way.)

Le Temps d’Une Fête opens with a sweet, green, diffusive fragrance that might have a little neroli tucked in with its galbanum and sharp tree moss…

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