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Browsing by author: Angela

Teo Cabanel Alahine ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 13 September 2010 90 Comments

Teo Cabanel Alahine

It’s so nice to dab perfume from a sample tube, lift my arm to my nose, and experience something that doesn’t smell like it came out of a focus group. No accords of “mermaid’s breath” or “sensual torpor” or “frisky plastic wrap.” No predictable purple fruit plus jasmine plus patchouli, and no foul interpretation of white flowers that ends up smelling like fruity hairspray. Téo Cabanel Alahine smells of good ingredients and classic perfumery. As simple as that sounds, it’s refreshing.

Téo Cabanel — named after its founder, Théodore Cabanel — began in Algeria in 1893. In 1908, he moved to Paris and began making perfume in earnest, amassing over 150 formulae. The Duchess of Windsor was a fan and on stationery from luxury hotels she ordered refills. Cabanel’s only child, a daughter, ran the company when Théodore died and continued making his perfumes until her death at age 92. She didn’t have children, so she bequeathed the perfume company to her goddaughter.

In 2003, her goddaughter’s daughter, Caroline Ilacqua, took over Téo Cabanel. Ilacqua, only 22, had been working in advertising in Ireland, but something about Téo Cabanel intrigued her. She traveled to Grasse to learn more about perfumery and met perfumer Jean-François Latty…

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Thoughts on Labor Day (and Perfume)

Posted by Angela on 6 September 2010 122 Comments

In a way, Labor Day is like New Year’s Eve. Both days straddle the old and the new, and both days offer the opportunity to start fresh. Even though many people use New Year’s Day to get busy with a list of resolutions that are meant to change their lives (quit smoking, lose ten pounds) in reality the new year often means little more than vacuuming up dried fir needles and writing the wrong date on checks for a few weeks.

By contrast, Labor Day is when we really get to start over. Kids go back to school in carefully selected school clothes and spanking new notebooks. They see old friends and tackle new cliques, and their report cards are blank slates. Adults forgo sneaking out early on Friday afternoons and give up their shares in beach houses. Everyone is back from vacation, and that big project you shoved to the back of your desk can’t wait any longer.

Labor Day also signals the transition from easy to more difficult. Summer is all about sundresses slipped over the head, dinners of sliced tomatoes and basil, and sunscreen and a swipe of lipstick. Life is simple. Perfume is likely to be something fresh and easy: an Eau de Cologne during the day and a narcotic floral at night…

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Estee Lauder Pleasures Bloom ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 30 August 2010 64 Comments

Estee Lauder Pleasures Bloom advert

At its truest, a flanker is a riff off an original scent, a lighthearted and maybe even forgettable spin on the themes of its forebear. After all, most flankers are around for a year or so then fall out of production. They’re not meant to be masterpieces. Sticking to this definition, Estée Lauder Pleasures Bloom is a textbook example of a flanker.*

I’ve felt so underwater on fragrance launches lately, that as much as I respect the brand, these days I wouldn’t turn my head at an Estée Lauder flanker. But I was wandering through the mall with my niece in Billings, Montana, listening to the ways of dating among teens (Niece: “And so I texted him for, like, two months before I met him.” Me: “You texted him all that time and he didn’t even know who you were?” Niece: “Aunt Angie, that’s how we do it these days. Anyway, I texted him and found out we were both at the mall at the same time…”) and stumbled across the Estée Lauder counter at Dillard’s. A tester of Sensuous Noir was on the counter. As I sniffed a tester strip, the sales associate handed me Pleasures Bloom. “Do you like florals?” she asked. “Try this.”

In that moment, Pleasures Bloom struck all the right notes…

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The Benefits of Loving Perfume

Posted by Angela on 23 August 2010 130 Comments

fromage

Last week the editor of Culture magazine, a periodical devoted to cheese, asked me to write a feature about a coming issue’s centerfold cheese. (Instead of a naked lady, Culture features a photo of a cheese in the center of each issue, often with a slice removed to make your mouth water at its unctuous interior.) I jumped on the opportunity. Besides the money, it meant I’d get to travel to Oregon’s Rogue River valley and spend the night in a restored Airstream, then pass the next day helping to milk Nigerian dwarf goats — for real! — and learn about the craft of making artisan goat cheese.

The problem was this: besides being an enthusiastic cheese consumer, I don’t know the first thing about making cheese. I bought an issue of the magazine to get my feet wet and waded into a world of rennet, cure times, culture, and curds. The reviews of cheeses mention balance, texture, and accompanying food and wine. Then, at once, I knew I could do it. Thanks to perfume, I can examine quality, structure, and suitability. I may not yet know the technicalities of making cheese, but my enthusiasm for perfume has given me the ability to fully appreciate a whole menu of sensory experiences…

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Dana Classic Love’s Baby Soft ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 13 August 2010 146 Comments

Dana Classic Love's Baby Soft

For my last review during Drugstore Week, I wanted to track down an old drugstore classic, like Coty Sand & Sable, Jovan Jungle Gardenia, or the fragrance I eventually landed, Dana Classic Fragrances Love’s Baby Soft. You’d think this would be easy, but no. Drugstores have really classed up their fragrance offerings.

At Walmart, my first stop, a half ounce bottle of Coty Exclamation was $14. Forget it! Doesn’t that defeat the whole purpose of a cheap thrill? Nine-tenths of the fragrance display was celebrity fragrances and perfume you can find in a department store. I moved on to Walgreen’s. A friendly SA with virulently blue contact lenses attended the locked display case. “Among the older ladies, the Elizabeth is popular,” she said, nodding toward Elizabeth Taylor White Diamonds. “The younger ladies like Jessica, and I absolutely love Dare Me,” she said, referring to Fancy Jessica Simpson and a Baby Phat fragrance. “Have you smelled the Hilary? It’s quite nice.”

For a moment I wondered if Hillary Clinton had fronted a perfume, then recalled Hilary Duff…

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