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Browsing by author: Angela

Gucci L’Arte di Gucci ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 16 May 2011 83 Comments

L'Arte di Gucci advertL'Arte di Gucci advert

A long time ago I read an interview with Donatella Versace in which she said wearing red lipstick with a red dress was bourgeois. She suggested pink lipstick instead. I get that. Red lipstick with a red dress is predictable, a hackneyed suggestion of seduction or power. Pink with red is a surprise that makes you look twice.

Sometimes, though, you don’t want to mess around with subtlety. You don’t want to play cute or artsy — you want to get to the point. A red dress with red lipstick will do just that. So will the perfume world’s version of red on red: a rose chypre. Gucci L’Arte di Gucci makes the point better than most.

L’Arte di Gucci launched in 1991. Its bottle, a glam concoction of asymmetry and gold, is a good representation of its contents. L’Arte di Gucci goes on sharp with a fanfare of green and rose, dirtied by cardamom. (Honestly, a fanfare. Don’t squirt the bottle while your honey’s still asleep, or you might wake him with the olfactory racket.) The fragrance shimmers with hints of orange, aldehydes, and cassis as it settles…

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Amouage Opus V ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 9 May 2011 64 Comments

Amouage Library Collection, Opus V

Amouage describes Opus V Eau de Parfum as a “woody and floral neoclassical masterpiece.” Sure, Opus V stars a beautiful iris and has wood, but how you feel about Amouage Opus V will likely depend on how much you like oud.

Perfumer Jacques Cavallier created Opus V. It has notes of orris, agarwood, rum, rose, jasmine, civet, and dry wood accord. According to Amouage’s PR machine, “the vision and inspiration for this fragrance is the internet and how knowledge and the art of living are shared amongst the glabal community digitally. This fragrance takes inspirations from the exploration of the tradition and classical art of sharing knowledge to how knowledge becomes fragmented in the world of artificial intelligence, and which has become an acceptable way of living nowadays.” (Whew! I bet Jean Claude Ellena is thanking his lucky stars his thematic fragrances for Hermès have to do with gardens.)

When I ponder classical art, the internet, and fragmented knowledge, I come up with the smell of fried transistors…

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The Perfect Perfume

Posted by Angela on 2 May 2011 113 Comments

In the north part of town is a shop, The Meadow, smaller than some bedrooms. When I visited, it was a wet, spring day, and I opened the door to a divine fragrance. The store’s humid air carried the scent of the shelves of single-origin chocolate bars on one side, the two walls of salt from around the world, a display of bitters and digestifs open to be sampled, and the flowers for sale in the center of the store: lilies, freesia, roses, and more. Wow, I thought, I want this in a perfume.

Have you ever considered your ideal perfume? Imagine this: you’re seated in an airplane next to an engaging stranger you discover is one of your favorite perfumers. He or she offers to create for you any perfume you want. What would you choose?

For me, that’s a difficult question. I would love an old school chypre led by an unpredictable fresh note — maybe lovage — with a wine-like heart that smells like a floral Riesling tastes. And a touch of leather. Maybe that combination would be a disaster.

I do love a crisp, green chypre. But why would I have one of those made when there are so many terrific green chypres out there? Givenchy III, Estée Lauder Private Collection, Yves Saint Laurent Y come to mind right away…

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Oscar de la Renta Esprit d’Oscar ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 25 April 2011 67 Comments

Oscar de la Renta Esprit d'Oscar

These past few years we’ve seen a number of “modernized” versions of classic fragrances. Some of them, like Yves Saint Laurent Belle d’Opium and Christian Dior Miss Dior Chérie, don’t smell at all like their parent versions. Others, like Chanel No. 5 Eau Première, Estée Lauder Youth Dew Amber Nude, and (to go back a few years) Hermès Soie de Calèche are recognizable kin of their forebears. Oscar de la Renta Esprit d’Oscar stands apart from the pack in that it is both clearly related to the original Oscar de la Renta of 1977 and yet has its own personality. I wouldn’t be surprised if it ends up outselling its parent.

Perfumer Frank Voelkl created Esprit d’Oscar, which launched this month. Esprit d’Oscar’s notes include lemon, bergamot, citron, jasmine, orange flower, tuberose, heliotrope, vetiver, tonka bean, and musk. Although I hadn’t smelled Oscar, the original, in years, Esprit d’Oscar called to mind the original’s tuberose and sandalwood signature right away. But there was something different — softer, lighter, and not as insistent, yet complex and much more than a watered-down version of the original…

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Elizabeth Taylor White Diamonds ~ perfume review

Posted by Angela on 18 April 2011 122 Comments

Elizabeth Taylor White Diamonds

It’s disconcerting to consider Elizabeth Taylor White Diamonds, a perfume supposed to represent the actress. After all, which Liz are we talking about? The ingénue of National Velvet? The tempestuous, alcohol-sodden seductress of Butterfield 8 and Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf? The Senator’s wife, depressed and overweight? Or maybe the laid-back Mrs. Fortensky?

I knew White Diamonds was wildly popular, but I expected it earned its sales among soap-opera-watching, chain-smoking elderly ladies. I figured it would smell of sharp aldehydes, cheap white flowers, and rubbing alcohol. Boy was I wrong. White Diamonds Eau de Toilette is a gentle white floral chypre with a soft, clean feel. Spring-sweet and soapy fresh. Classic, really. I’m hooked.

It seems crazy, but when Parfums International launched White Diamonds in the fall of 1991, it was the first time a celebrity had released a second feminine fragrance. Elizabeth Taylor Passion for Women (1987) and Passion for Men had already hit the market…

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