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Browsing by author: Angela

By Kilian Incense Oud ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 20 June 2011 35 Comments

By Kilian Incense Oud fragrance

A long time ago, a friend who was a painter gave me a book. I can’t tell you now what the book was about, but I remember the rich scent of his work soaked in its pages. For days, I buried my nose in the book to smell the turpentine, oil paint, and raw wood of his studio. The smell brought back the giant landscape he was working on while a cat padded over the cement floor to jump into my lap as I talked and nursed a glass of red wine. This is what I think of when I smell By Kilian Incense Oud Eau de Parfum.

Incense Oud, the third in By Kilian’s Arabian Nights series, was developed by perfumer Sidonie Lancesseur and released earlier this year. By Kilian’s website lists among its notes incense, oud, cardamom, rose, and labdanum. Probably, like many fragrances, it has something citrusy and fleeting for top notes, but I don’t smell it. And probably there’s something more complex in its body, but I don’t smell that, either.

What I do smell is a surprisingly sinuous — although definitely present — incense sweetened with sandalwood…

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Day to Night Perfume

Posted by Angela on 13 June 2011 46 Comments

Jean Patou Colony perfume advertJean Patou Joy perfume advert

Last weekend was the first that hinted at summer. The temperature climbed into the 80s, and roses seemed to explode overnight. To celebrate, I spritzed myself with L’Artisan Parfumeur Ananas Fizz. Saturday evening I prepared to go to an art school gala. My azure silk 1960s cocktail dress was set out, along with some Weiss and Eisenberg rhinestone jewelry and a ten-year old pair of gold Prada evening sandals. Now for perfume. I still smelled faintly of Ananas Fizz’s vetiver and pineapple but wanted something a little headier for the evening. Then — bingo! — I knew just what to choose: Jean Patou Colony parfum, a rich pineapple chypre. It layered perfectly.

So many magazine articles tutor the art of day-to-night dressing. Just pack stilettos and a clutch in your briefcase, they say, unbutton your blouse, put on red lipstick, and hello disco. But what about perfume? How do you go from day to night with perfume?

An obvious approach is to do like I did on Saturday and choose an evening perfume that carries forward one of the main notes of your day fragrance…

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Elizabeth Taylor Black Pearls ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 6 June 2011 99 Comments

Elizabeth Taylor Black Pearls

For Elizabeth Taylor Black Pearls Eau de Parfum, it’s almost as if the Liz Taylor perfume team set out to make a fragrance that was the complete opposite of White Diamonds. First, of course, the name. What could be more removed from a white diamond than a black pearl? Then the fragrance itself. White Diamonds is a grand, soapy, white floral with a clean, dignified, and innocent air. Black Pearls is something else altogether.

“Well, if we really want to distinguish it from White Diamonds, we’ll need fruit,” a marketing person must have said.

“How about peach? You know, voluptuous, like Ms. Taylor herself. We can add a spot of bergamot to keep it from being too sweet,” the perfume executive said.

“What else? What else will set it apart from White Diamonds?”

“Maybe vanilla? We can make it an oriental. Wait! I know — how about leather? A whopping leather note? There’s nothing innocent and ladylike about that.” And so, in 1996, Black Pearls was born. At least, in my imagination that’s how it happened. And that’s how it smells…

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Illuminum White Gardenia Petals ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 31 May 2011 185 Comments

Wills & Kate kissing on the balcony

Almost as soon as word got out that Catherine Middleton1 wore Illuminum White Gardenia Petals during her wedding to Prince William, the fragrance flew off the shelves. Illuminum vendors Luckyscent (in the United States) and Roullier White (in Great Britain) have month-plus waiting lists for the fragrance. Illuminum is hard to find, leading me to wager that many of the White Gardenia Petals purchases are unsniffed.

I was definitely curious what White Gardenia Petals smelled like. With what would a prospective queen, dressed in Alexander McQueen, watched by heads of state from around the world, serenaded by choirs and trumpets, surrounded by a massive stone abbey impregnated with centuries of incense — with what would she perfume herself? Thanks to a decant from the industrious [Now Smell This reader] Daisy, I can now tell you. With something that smells like a scented panty liner, that’s what.

I wouldn’t write this if I thought the Duchess of Cambridge were a regular Now Smell This reader. I hope every time she wears White Gardenia Petals she feels the love and exhilaration she felt on her wedding day…

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Goodbye Lilacs (and Musk and Lemon and Mint…)

Posted by Angela on 23 May 2011 187 Comments

lilacs in vase, more lilacs through window

Last week I cut an armload of lilacs to bring in the house. All year I’d been looking forward to the sliver of spring when I could put them in every room of the house. By carefully balancing on my compost bin, I could even snip some of my neighbor’s darker lilacs growing over the fence for a really lush bouquet.

As the lilacs warmed in a vase on my mantle, their fragrance filled the house. I buried my nose in the flowers, breathed deeply, and thought: Glade Plug In. My flowers smelled like a synthetic air freshener! And these were real lilacs! Glade stole my lilacs from me. Now, even lilac-infused Jean Patou Vacances and Frédéric Malle En Passant have lost their appeal.

Robin’s review of The Different Company Pure Virgin, in which she compared the fragrance to detergent, drove it home for me. Industry has co-opted some of the smells we used to love. Now, instead of an industrial product reminding us of nature, nature reminds us of an industrial product…

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