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Browsing by author: Angela

Frederic Malle Angeliques sous la Pluie ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 25 July 2011 52 Comments

Frederic Malle Angeliques sous la Pluie

While the rest of the nation has suffered from heat, we’ve had moderate temperatures and summer rain. I’m not talking about the wild, ozonic thunderstorms that erupt late afternoons in the eastern states. (How I miss them and fireflies.) I mean cold rain that eases earthy smells from the city, while soft, warm air pillows its splatter. In other words, it’s been perfect weather for Frédéric Malle Angéliques sous la Pluie.

Angéliques sous la Pluie was part of Frédéric Malle’s initial release of perfumes in 2000. Among the house’s line, Angéliques sous la Pluie doesn’t seem to get a lot of attention. I think it’s worth a second look.

Iconic nose Jean-Claude Ellena created Angéliques sous la Pluie, adding notes of angelica leaves, juniper berries, coriander, musk, and sweet cedar. In Perfumes: The A – Z Guide, Luca Turin compares Angéliques sous la Pluie to a wormwood-based Swiss liqueur, and not favorably. I’m not sure I’ve ever had a Swiss liqueur, so that comparison doesn’t prejudice my opinion…

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Surfing the Tidal Wave of New Releases

Posted by Angela on 18 July 2011 280 Comments

perfume samples

It’s getting ridiculous. There’s no way to keep up with all the new perfume hitting the market. I’ve heard different numbers, but certainly well over a thousand fragrances will launch this year. As someone who reviews perfume, I feel a responsibility to keep somewhat up to date with major releases, at least. Yet even I’ve thrown in the towel. Whole perfume lines spring up and fold before I even get around to trying them.

None of us can stem the tide, so how do we ride it successfully? How do we figure out which perfumes are worth sampling and which can be passed over?

I’d love to hear how you decide what, in this ocean of new perfume, you try. Here’s what I do…

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Mona di Orio Les Nombres d’Or Tubereuse, Vetyver, and Vanille ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 11 July 2011 59 Comments

Facing another lineup of soliflores, it’s easy to be dismissive. Everyone from Van Cleef & Arpels and Roger Vivier to Marc Jacobs and Chloé seems to be churning out single note fragrances. Add that to the established soliflores on the market from everyone from Serge Lutens to Annick Goutal, and you have to ask if we really need another take on lily, iris, or amber. Recently Mona di Orio jumped into the soliflore game with her Les Nombres d’Or. Do we really need more soliflores, especially those that retail for $220 for a 100 ml bottle?

Before tackling that question, let’s first consider the soliflore, then look at the latest Les Nombres d’Or offerings: Tubéreuse, Vétyver, and Vanille.

A soliflore fragrance focuses on one note. It’s the sort of fragrance you can sniff and quickly say, “Oh, that’s lily of the valley,” or “That’s incense.” But it doesn’t mean Edmond Roudnitska made Christian Dior Diorissimo, an ode to the lily of the valley, by squeezing a bunch of lilies of the valley into a bottle, and if you smell Diorissimo next to a real lily of the valley you’ll appreciate that the fragrance isn’t a slavish imitation of the flower, either. I’m not an expert, but from what I understand, to create a soliflore a perfumer must draw from a variety of materials to summon the green, crisp, soft, watery, lush, sharp, earthy, or other aspects of the fragrance she is creating.

For instance, take the rose…

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The Go-To Perfume

Posted by Angela on 5 July 2011 307 Comments

Maybe you’ve had a week like mine: steady work at one job and three deadlines for two freelance clients keeping you at the computer until at least ten o’clock each night. The roses you cut a week ago that were so fresh and full of life now drop shriveled petals on the hearth. Emails from friends — the emails you really do want to respond to — pile up until they pass above the screen’s window and into the island of lost correspondence. Mornings are so rushed you pick up something from the bedroom floor to toss on and hope cute shoes will make it all right as you dash out the door.

But of course you must wear perfume. What will it be? Your “go-to” perfume, of course.

A go-to perfume is a fragrance that you can grab and spritz on without thinking. It won’t interfere with your day, won’t offend, and goes with everything. It might even be a perfume you like all right but don’t particularly love. The main thing is, like a grilled cheese sandwich or a plain-cut white blouse, it satisfies without requiring a lot of thought.

For me, go-to perfumes are seasonal…

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Jean Patou 1000 ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 27 June 2011 62 Comments

Jean Patou 1000

The drizzly spring afternoon at an antiques mall where I found a bottle of Jean Patou 1000 Eau de Toilette also yielded a 1920s evening coat. The coat is gold lamé, dull and frayed at the cuffs and collar, and is covered with gold and green sequins sewn in the shapes of flowers with twisting stems. Green silk velvet lines the coat’s interior, even down the insides of the sleeves. Sewn in the collar is a label in a Gatsby-esque font that reads “Miss Wilson, 657 Boylston st., Boston.” The coat feels glamorous, mysterious, and decayed. That’s exactly how I feel about Jean Patou 1000.

House nose Jean Kerléo created 1000 (sometimes called “Mille,” the French word for “thousand”). According to the Jean Patou website, the formula took ten years and 1,000 tries to perfect. Kerléo had only worked for Patou for four years when 1000 was released in 1972, so you can take the story with a grain of salt or figure maybe Kerléo picked up on another perfumer’s work when he arrived. For 1000’s launch, Patou delivered by Rolls Royce 1,000 bottles of the fragrance in jewel-encrusted boxes to the “most elegant women in Paris.”

The Patou website calls 1000 a floral chypre…

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