• About
  • Login to comment
    • Bluesky
    • RSS
    • Twitter

Now Smell This

a blog about perfume

Menu ▼
  • Perfume Reviews
  • New Perfumes
  • Archives
Browsing by author: Angela

Perfume, Optimism, and the New Year

Posted by Angela on 6 September 2011 69 Comments

School bus

[Ed. note:  I’m having various internet access & other technology issues. Apologies for the lack of posts today — here, a bit late, is Angie’s weekly article. Hopefully I’ll be back in business soon. Robin]

When I was a kid, the year broke easily into two pieces: a hot, dusty summer of playing at the swimming hole and making forts out of dried Manzanita branches; and the school year of textbooks, reuniting with friends, and tetherball.

In some ways, the start of the new school year was more significant than New Year’s day. Each school year, I hoped my carefully selected outfit from the Montgomery Wards catalog would signal my good taste and worldliness. My new haircut would launch me into the stratosphere of girls boys liked. My memorization of the capitals of all fifty states would awe the smart kids. Maybe, for the first time, some of the boys might even be taller than I was. The beginning of the school year was a time for optimism.

Today — the day after Labor Day — starts the school year for most American students. These days, I’ve taken to perfume to express my optimism for the brilliant new me that will surely take root. (O.K., maybe vintage coats play a role, too. And that chunky cast bronze ring I’ve had my eye on.) Through perfume, I can express the qualities I want to embody.

First, I’d like my perfume to convey something witty and unexpected…

Read the rest of this article »

Chanel No. 19 and No. 19 Poudre ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 29 August 2011 119 Comments

Chanel No. 19 Poudré

No matter how many fragrances Chanel’s line up features, Chanel No. 5 hogs the limelight. Yet supposedly Coco Chanel’s favorite, the one she named after her birth date, was No. 19. Rumor is she kept No. 19 out of mass production so she could wear it herself and give bottles to special clients and friends.

In 1971, after Mademoiselle’s death, Chanel released No. 19 to the public. Chanel’s website describes the fragrance, developed by perfumer Henri Robert, as “A rich blend of floral and green notes, followed by May Rose and Iris from Florence. The finale: a chime of Chypre with a subtle, woody Vetiver note.” It goes on to say No. 19 is “Audacious and assertive. Never conventional.”

If No. 5 is the grande dame with pearls and Champagne, No. 19 is the ingénue. While No. 5 sits in the living room with nattily dressed suitors, No. 19 is getting back from a ride through the forest on a summer day…

Read the rest of this article »

Jovan Woman by Jovan ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 26 August 2011 31 Comments

Jovan WomanJovan WomanJovan Woman

“What a man wants from woman, Jovan created.” So says the sticker on Jovan Woman by Jovan’s brown plastic cap. From smelling Woman, I deduce a man wants a woman who smells like a dude. In a head shop.

Woman by Jovan is a strange concoction. Released in 1977, it seems to presage the big, spicy orientals to come — Yves Saint Laurent Opium, Chanel Coco, and Estée Lauder Cinnabar being a few — but somehow misses the bull’s eye by a few inches. It’s as if Jovan created its own silky, spicy, woody, oriental fragrance ahead of the curve, but before bottling it, a few gallons of aftershave fell in the vat.

From reading the few reviews I can find of Woman, it seems to have a cult following who fearfully tracks its dwindling supply. (I found my dusty bottle of cologne concentrate spray at Rite Aid.) In reviews on Makeupalley, I saw Woman compared to Balmain Miss Balmain, Paloma Picasso Mon Parfum, Caron Tabac Blond, Parfums Grès Cabochard, and vintage Christian Dior Miss Dior…

Read the rest of this article »

Helen of Troy (Faberge) Brut and Dana English Leather ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 25 August 2011 63 Comments

Let’s just get the bad news out of the way now: Brut no longer comes with a darling little necklace glued around its collar. The good news is that English Leather still has its wooden cap. As for how the fragrances have held up over the years, I can’t say, since I haven’t smelled the old versions. But, in my opinion, both fragrances still have their charms.

A quick visit to Brut World informs us that Helen of Troy Brut is the “Essence of Man.” Brut World doesn’t give a lot of information about the fragrance, except to describe its ten products, six of which are forms of deodorant. But it does provide a long list of features defining the Brut Man, including: “He has conviction, but is never convicted.” (Always reassuring.) “He has been the hundredth caller.” (Not sure if this means he’s won at a game show or what.) And my favorite, “He prefers things shaken, not stirred. But he will stir for others if that’s what they like.”

Fabergé launched Brut, created by the aptly named Karl Mann, in 1964…

Read the rest of this article »

Idea Fragrances Company (Evyan) White Shoulders ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 24 August 2011 80 Comments

Evyan White Shoulders advertalt=

I’d be willing to bet White Shoulders was the first perfume many of you owned — or pilfered a drop or two from your mom’s dresser. From the fragrance’s tawny pink packaging with a gold cameo and font that looks like it was lifted from a Marquess’s personal letter, to its lush white floral scent, for me White Shoulders was the ne plus ultra of class.

And then I grew up. To be fair, White Shoulders changed a lot over the years, too. When it was first released in 1945, the Hartnell perfume company, later renamed Evyan Perfumes, manufactured it. Over the years, White Shoulders bounced from Evyan to Elizabeth Arden to Parfums International, and now to a company I’ve never heard of, Idea Fragrances Company. No doubt its formula changed and cheapened. Now for six dollars and a trip to Walmart, you can own a quarter ounce of White Shoulders Parfum…

Read the rest of this article »

« Newer articles
Older articles »

Advertisement

Search

Recent reviews

Atelier Cologne Love Osmanthus
Moschino Toy Boy
Arquiste Misfit
Diptyque Eau Capitale
Zoologist Bee
Parfum d’Empire Immortelle Corse
Comme des Garcons Series 10 Clash
Frédéric Malle Rose & Cuir
L’Artisan Parfumeur Le Chant de Camargue
Yves Saint Laurent Grain de Poudre
Régime des Fleurs Chloë Sevigny Little Flower
Chanel 1957
Gallivant Los Angeles
Amouage Portrayal Woman

Blogroll

Bois de Jasmin
Grain de Musc
Perfume Posse
The Non-Blonde
More blogs...

Perfumista lists

100 fragrances every perfumista should try
And 25 more fragrances every perfumista should smell
50 masculine fragrances every perfumista should try
26 vintage fragrances every perfumista should try
25 rose fragrances every perfumista should try
11 Cheap Perfumes Beauty Outsiders Love

Favorite posts

The Great Perfume Reduction Plan
Why I Love Old School Chypres
New to perfume and want to learn more?
How to make fragrance last through the day
Fragrance concentrations: sorting it all out
On reformulations, or why your favorite perfume doesn’t smell like it used to
How to get fragrance samples
Perfume for Life: How Long Will Your Fragrance Collection Last?

Upcoming

List of upcoming Friday projects

6 January ~ damage poll

31 January ~ winter reading poll

Back to Top

Home
Archives
About Now Smell This :: Privacy Policy
Perfume Reviews
New Perfumes
General Perfume Articles
The Monday Mail

Glossary of Perfume Terms
Perfume FAQ
Perfume Books

Noses ~ Perfumers A-E :: F-K :: L-S :: T-Z

Perfume Houses A-B :: C :: D-E :: F-G
H-J :: K-L :: M :: N-O :: P :: Q-R :: S
T :: U-Z

Copyright © 2005-2026 Now Smell This. All rights reserved.