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Browsing by author: Angela

Perfume That Just Doesn’t Fit

Posted by Angela on 23 January 2012 232 Comments

Elizabeth Taylor & Montgomery Clift, Place in the Sun

Oh how I love Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower. There’s nothing quite like its succulent gardenia and tuberose riding a magic carpet of crisp, leafy green. When I spray from my travel vial, I vow I’ll buy a real bottle soon — the big one, too.

But after an hour or so, I start to feel uncomfortable. I smell languid and romantic, bigger than life, like Elizabeth Taylor in A Place in the Sun. The thing is, I’m more like someone from a slapstick comedy. Carnal Flower just doesn’t fit me.

Thinking about it, it’s easy to match a fragrance to a persona. For instance, take aldehydic florals. Who do you see? I see someone elegant, with a profile that could be carved on a cameo. How about a mainstream fruity floral? I picture someone young with blond highlights (maybe that’s too easy). Old school green chypre? Rose oud? Classic cologne? “Concept” fragrances? They all have their types.

Perfume lovers seem to know instinctively that different fragrances go with different styles and moods…

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The Oregon Experiment ~ book review

Posted by Angela on 16 January 2012 71 Comments

The Oregon Experiment by Keith Scribner features a professor of anarchy newly arrived in a small town in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, his wife the perfumer, a “sensuous free spirit called Sequoia” and a complicated anarchist. The review copy came with a sample of perfume called “The Oregon Experiment” by Yosh Han.

Could there be a better book for me to review? I like to read and I like perfume. Also, I’m a Portlander and live in a neighborhood so liberal that my Gore-Lieberman lawn sign was vandalized for not touting Nader. Sequoia is one of the more subtle hippie-girl names within a five-block radius of my house, which includes the fabled Peoples Co-op. Scribner, I’ll see your anarchist and raise you a freegan.

So, I opened The Oregon Experiment with relish. The novel is beautifully written — polished to a high shine, and full of lush turns of phrase. But in the end, it’s like an intricately carved chair of satiny wood that is too high to sit in, or only has three legs…

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Christian Dior Dune ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 9 January 2012 91 Comments

Dior Dune advert

Despite being twenty years old, Christian Dior Dune seems to be seeing a resurgence — at least in the perfume blogs. Dune has been coming up a lot in comments to posts, and I’ve seen a smattering of reviews over the past year or so. Last week, I told Robin I’d like to review Dune for today. The very next day Victoria at Bois de Jasmin posted a marvelous Dune review. Apparently Dune is in the air.

Jean-Louis Sieuzac was lead perfumer for Dune. In 1993, Dune won a FiFi for Women’s Fragrance of the Year in Limited Distribution. The Dior website lists Dune’s notes as mandarin, peony, and vanilla. Michael Edwards’s Perfume Legends adds notes of broom, wallflower, bergamot, lily, jasmine, rose, amber, lichen, musk, sandalwood, and vanilla.

Dior’s web copy could mislead a reader into wrongly thinking Dune smells like an Orange Julius at the Jersey Shore…

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Vero Profumo Onda ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 2 January 2012 80 Comments

Vero Profumo Onda Eau de ParfumIt’s rare to smell a fragrance that seems completely new, like nothing else on the market. It’s even more rare to find something that smells not only new, but at the same time ancient, as if unearthed from an Egyptian sarcophagus. Astonishingly, Vero Profumo Onda manages this last trick. There’s nothing of the focus group about it. If someone told me Onda was Mata Hari’s secret weapon, I’d believe it. If she told me Onda was Comme des Garçons’ latest fragrance, “Bilge Water Supreme,” I’d believe that, too. It’s a marvel.

Vero Kern, the nose behind Vero Profumo, released three fragrances in extrait — Onda, Rubj, and Kiki — in 2008. In 2010, she released Eau de Parfum versions of each fragrance. These three perfumes are Vero Profumo’s only offerings. Vero Profumo is one of the few perfume houses that doesn’t hustle one or two new perfumes out the door each year. While it’s a relief not to have to field a regular raft of new perfumes, Onda, Rubj, and Kiki are so interesting that I’m eager for her next release.

I first smelled Onda extrait when a Now Smell This reader passing through town slid a spray sample across the table of a Thai restaurant…

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Perfume and Leisure

Posted by Angela on 26 December 2011 146 Comments

Guerlain Samsara

At last. Twelve days off in a row, with no work (o.k., a little work), no family to deal with, and no obligations more taxing than making dinner and taking the dog for a walk. My whole daily routine will change. I’ll wake later, dress more comfortably, maybe nap, and spend more time reading.

Of course, my perfume routine will change, too. Instead of an office-friendly spritz in the morning, I can wear whatever I want, whenever I want. What will it be? Undoubtedly a smattering of fragrances from these categories:

The Big Personalities: With no officemates to offend, I can go wild with the powerhouse perfumes, the sort of perfumes you smell on your sweater for days. Guerlain Shalimar, Jean Desprez Bal à Versailles, Guerlain Samsara, Rochas Femme, Comme des Garçons + Daphne Guinness Daphne, and Frédéric Malle Portrait of a Lady are a few delicious perfumes with assertive character that aren’t exactly crowd pleasers…

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