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Browsing by author: Angela

Worth Je Reviens and Je Reviens Couture ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 2 April 2012 70 Comments

Worth Je Reviens advert 1Worth Je Reviens advert 2

Of all the fragrances crowding shelves, relatively few smell truly like “perfume” to me. I don’t mean they’re necessarily what some people consider “perfumey” — emitting sneezy aldehydes and high-pitched florals — but that these perfumes don’t try to tell a story or mimic a bouquet or evoke a place. They are, simply, abstract olfactory compositions that build something distinct and whole from their pieces, something you recognize at once. Worth Je Reviens is one of those perfumes.

Perfumer Maurice Blanchet developed Je Reviens in 1932. Je Reviens, over the years, moved from prestige to mass market status; it was reissued in the prestige category in 2004 as Je Reviens Couture.1 Susan Irvine, in Perfume: The Creation and Allure of Classic Fragrances, attributes the original name to Napoleon’s instructions to Josephine, “Je reviens en trois jours, ne te lave pas.”2 (Hardly a recommendation for a spring-like aldehydic floral fragrance, if you ask me.) Its notes include jasmine, orange blossom, ylang ylang, aldehydes, narcissus, jonquil, violet, sandalwood, vetiver and musk.

Je Reviens is plainly Je Reviens, whether it’s the drugstore variety, the Je Reviens Couture, or vintage Eau de Cologne…

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Pierre Cardin Choc de Cardin ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 26 March 2012 42 Comments

Pierre Cardin Choc de Cardin

As an antidote to hot weather, a chilled bottle of something refreshing to splash on is a must. Open my refrigerator, and among the salted anchovies, ancient miso, and quart of half and half you’ll find a plastic jug of Revlon Jean Naté. If I could swing it, you’d see a clutch of Pierre Cardin Choc de Cardin bottles instead.

Choc de Cardin, developed by perfumer Françoise Caron, launched in 1981.1 It’s that rare fragrance that’s a mix of refreshingly clean and scintillatingly dirty. To get an idea of what I mean, imagine the scent of a hot sidewalk after a rain. No, Choc de Cardin doesn’t smell like wet cement, but it blends the sensation of dirt and crisp clean. Or think of what it’s like to emerge from the shower, all soapy fresh, then slip on your honey’s bathrobe — the robe that should have gone in last week’s wash but didn’t. That’s what I mean.

Choc de Cardin opens with sharp, soapy green. Initially it smells like many bergamot and herb-tinged colognes, cool and refreshing and not overly citrus. Before long, skank kicks in in the form of coriander and civet…

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The Perfume Lover by Denyse Beaulieu ~ Q & A

Posted by Angela on 19 March 2012 19 Comments

The Perfume Lover by Denyse Beaulieu, book coverDenyse Beaulieu

An often-cited quote asserts that “writing about music is like dancing about architecture.” Substitute “perfume” for “music,” and you get an idea of the challenge perfume writing presents. To communicate how a fragrance smells, a writer often draws from stories, memories, and senses other than smell to evoke perfume’s deep and broad impact. Denyse Beaulieu does all that and more as she tracks the development of Séville à l’aube, an upcoming perfume release by L’Artisan Parfumeur. The result, The Perfume Lover, is a passionate and insightful story not just about the development of a single fragrance, but about how perfume has infused Denyse’s own life. If you enjoy Denyse’s perfume blog, Grain de Musc, you’ll want to read The Perfume Lover.

I consider Denyse a friend, so to avoid a conflict of interest, rather than write a traditional review of The Perfume Lover, I present a handful of questions about the book and Denyse’s responses. Denyse will be checking in, so if you’d like to add your own questions you can leave them in comments.

The Perfume Lover is an unusual combination of memoir, perfume history, and the story of the development of a single fragrance. What led you to choose this format?

I’d say the format chose me…

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Spring Tonic Perfume

Posted by Angela on 12 March 2012 117 Comments

Chive blossom

When daffodils open and plum trees burst into bloom, I often reach for perfumes plump with hyacinth, lily of the valley, and narcissus. Guerlain Chamade, Annick Goutal Grand Amour, Parfums de Nicolaï Le Temps d’une Fête, and Christian Dior Diorissimo top the list. Something about their almost cartoonish opulence reflects the crazy blaze of flowers that splash in otherwise bleak streets this time of year.

But spring is about something else, too…

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Parfums de Nicolai Maharanih ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 5 March 2012 49 Comments

umbrellas

This review of Parfums de Nicolaï Maharanih was supposed to start like this: Some fragrances are the life of the party. They’re attractive, engaging, and you can’t help but gravitate toward them, even if they’re not the sort of people you choose to have in your life all the time.

Then, surveying other reviews, I discovered that many people don’t see Maharanih as a charming diva at all, but as a grating boor. So I’ve changed the angle on this review. Let me start again:

Parfums de Nicolaï Maharanih is like Cher bedecked in Bob Mackie finery. Whether you admire her beauty and audacity, or think she looks like a Trojan drag queen at a disco, you’re sure to have an opinion…

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