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Browsing by author: Angela

Faberge Tigress ~ vintage fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 11 June 2012 31 Comments

Faberge Tigress advert, Lola FalanaFaberge Tigress advert

I admit it. At least half the reason I love Fabergé Tigress is its packaging. Although Tigress’s boxes and bottles evolved with time, most of them featured tiger stripe somewhere. My favorite packaging has tiger stripe inside the box, and the stripes are edged in gold against an orange-brown background so rich it’s almost red. The Norma Desmond in me aches for a dressing room papered in it. Faux tiger fur wraps Tigress’s wooden cap — the perfect complement to its topaz-tinted juice. And the fonts! Over the years, Fabergé ran the gamut of glamorous lettering for Tigress. I like the curly font that looks like it should be advertising poodle trims.

Fabergé released it in 1938, but in my mind Tigress isn’t late 1930s or even Norma Desmond’s long lost 1920s. It’s forever 1970s, when Fabergé ruled the drugstore shelves with Brut, Babe, and a line of earth-toned nail polishes my mother loved. Tigress’s palette blended well with harvest gold appliances, too. When I imagine a woman with a long, sandy shag and bell bottomed pants emerging from a Gran Torino, she’s wearing Tigress…

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Molyneux Quartz ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 4 June 2012 55 Comments

Molyneux Quartz advert

There was a time — not long ago, either — when “clean” didn’t smell like laundry soap. In those days, a clean fragrance was crisp and green with a hint of citrus, but might also waft a pretty floral heart and deliver a punch of oakmoss. Clean wasn’t a stack of folded sweat pants hot from the dryer, it was a white kid glove slid onto a cool, powdered hand. Chanel Cristalle and Estée Lauder Aliage embody this style of clean. Molyneux Quartz must have been one of the last mainstream fragrances of this genre.

Quartz was released in 1978. The Parfums Molyneux website mentions only honeysuckle and patchouli among its notes, but Jan Moran’s Fabulous Fragrances lists peach, hyacinth, cassie, jasmine, rose, carnation, orris, melon, sandalwood, musk amber, moss, benzoin, and cedarwood and classifies Quartz as a “floral-fruity.”

To me, Quartz Eau de Parfum is a delicate green chypre with hints of peach and melon and a whiff of cut herbs…

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Ys Uzac Pohadka ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 28 May 2012 49 Comments

Ys Uzac Pohadka

Did you groan when you saw this was a review of yet another new, obscure niche perfume? I admit I let whole perfume lines go untested simply because it’s so hard to get samples. Besides, how fun could it be for readers to wade through yet another review of something they may never be able to sniff? But some lines — small and hard to find as they are — merit the extra effort. For instance, I’d always want to smell something new by Vero Profumo, Parfums DelRae, or Ormonde Jayne. From testing Ys Uzac Pohadka, I wonder if Switzerland-based Ys Uzac might join that list.

Pohadka Eau de Parfum, which comes with the subtitle “Ainsi la nuit,” is a light, complex tobacco fragrance. Notes for Pohadka mentioned on Ys Uzac’s website include fresh cut grass, blond tobacco, immortelle, jasmine, smoked vanilla and fresh herbs. The website adds that each of the company’s four fragrances incorporates about 90 percent natural ingredients.

When I think of a tobacco-centered fragrance, my thoughts go to perfumes evoking pouches of scented pipe tobacco…

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The Good Life (including Perfume)

Posted by Angela on 21 May 2012 60 Comments

Garden at La Muse

Spending three weeks at a writer’s retreat in France — a country known for its dedication to the art de vivre — leads me to ponder the good life. What is the “good life” exactly? To me, it can be just about everything that happens beyond adequate food, shelter, and sound health. Living the good life doesn’t have to be expensive. The key is to pay attention and to take risks. As Auntie Mame, my guide in all matters spiritual, says, “Life is a banquet, and most poor suckers are starving to death.”

Rather than pontificate, I offer some concrete examples on the good life I’ve experienced over the past few weeks:

Try new things. Oh, I know what an effort it is to get up an hour earlier or attempt a cartwheel twenty years after your last one or extract a saddle of rabbit when armed with nothing but a carving knife and instructions from the internet. It’s a pain. But it snaps you out of your groove and lets you tune in to the good life when it’s actually happening so you don’t miss it. Sure, negotiating public transportation from the Nice airport to my hotel was a challenge, especially when laid on top of jet leg, but it led to my meeting a terrific woman and having dinner at her house prepared by a sous chef from the Hotel Negresco. When life offers you this kind of challenge, see it as an and opportunity and take it. You never know where it will lead.

Take risks. Yesterday, the retreat’s dog and I wandered nearly an hour too far on a trail. I didn’t bring hiking shoes, and a storm had clouded over the distant, snow-capped Pyrenees…

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Cabris and Art et Parfum ~ part two

Posted by Angela on 14 May 2012 44 Comments

muguet

[Ed. note: if you missed it, see part 1 of Cabris and Art et Parfum]

The first niche perfume I bought — the fragrance that plunged me head-first into perfumania — was Frédéric Malle Noir Epices.1 Meeting Noir Epice’s creator, Michel Roudnitska, brought my love of fragrance full circle.

Besides the Art et Parfum lab and office, the other white stucco building at Sainte Blanche is Michel Roudnitska and his wife’s home. Just beyond the house is a T-shaped pool with a long stem where his father, Edmond, swam laps. Closer to the house meanders a shady Japanese-style garden Michel Roudnitska laid out, complete with a tiny bridge and statues of what look to my untrained eye like Thai goddesses. Up the hill a stone’s throw is the monument where Edmond and Thérèse Roudnitska’s ashes are interred.2

I kept a steady watch on the house while Olivier Maure, Art et Parfum’s director, went to fetch Roudnitska. I’ve never had the chance to meet in the flesh someone about whom I’ve read so much and whose fragrances I’ve worn…

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