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Browsing by author: Angela

Coach Summer Edition 2012 and Burberry Brit Summer Edition 2012 ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 9 July 2012 26 Comments

Coach Summer Edition 2012 perfume

This week at lunch, a coworker and I took a walk to enjoy the first of Portland’s summer weather. “Do you mind stopping at Nordstrom?” I asked her. “I want to see if I can get samples of some summer flankers.”

“Sure,” she said. We walked in silence for a few steps. “Sweetie —” she calls everyone “sweetie” or “gal,” “— I have to ask. What’s a flanker?”

Oh, how insular our little perfume loving world is. We even have our own jargon. I explained how fragrance companies sometimes release limited-edition summer versions of their most popular fragrances. Although I’ve fallen for a few flankers — Yves Saint Laurent Opium Fleur de Shanghai comes to mind — for the most part I don’t waste my time with them. Too many other fragrances beckon. But maybe I’d been missing out.

At Nordstrom, two flankers commanded prominent display: Coach Summer Edition 2012 and Burberry Brit Summer Edition…

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Old Lady Perfumes

Posted by Angela on 2 July 2012 210 Comments

Mamie Eisenhower

“That smells like an old lady.” Nearly everyone who wears perfume has heard it said — and maybe even said it — at one time or another. Usually it’s said with disdain. It’s time to give it a rest, people.

First, let’s deal with the term “old lady.” Most older people I know Skype with their grandchildren, get involved with political movements, and plan trips to Turkey. Clearly, the idea of blue-haired ladies who sit around drinking sherry with the vicar is a thing of the past.

Some of you might rebut, “By ‘old lady’ I mean ‘old fashioned.’ You know, perfumes that were popular in the past.” Perfumes that were popular in the past include Guerlain Shalimar, Robert Piguet Fracas, Jean Patou Joy, Bourjois Evening in Paris, Prince Matchabelli Wind Song, Chanel No. 5 — you get the point. They’re diverse. If they’re old fashioned, then so is everything except laundry musk fragrances, aquatic fragrances, and fruity florals with patchouli…

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Amouage Gold Woman ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 28 June 2012 118 Comments

Amouage Gold Woman

For more than a month now, a 1950s nude-pink organza coat has hung at a vintage clothing store downtown. It has a smocked top, gathered sleeves with French cuffs, and an open front designed to waft over full skirts. I imagine the coat resting lightly on the bare shoulders of a woman going to the opera on a summer night. Her rhinestone earrings glitter above the organza’s satiny finish, and the click of her heels on the theater’s marble floors punctuates the coat’s swish against her evening gown.

The coat is priced to move at less than $20. So why hasn’t anyone bought it? I think it’s simply too special for most people to imagine integrating into their lives. They remember their fat couch at home in front of the TV and the afternoon they just spent pushing a shopping cart through Costco or enduring eight hours in a bland cubicle, and they forego the coat for yoga pants. I wonder if Amouage Gold Woman faces the same obstacle? Even hardcore Amouage lovers tend to gloss over Gold in favor of some of Amouage’s warmer, spicier, more incensey fragrances.

This review is a cry for glamour and an entreaty to give Gold Woman a square sampling…

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Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Ligne Trapeze and Le Smoking ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 25 June 2012 20 Comments

Yves Saint Laurent, Le SmokingYves Saint Laurent, Le Smoking

Two years ago I stood in line over two hours outside the Petit Palais to see the Yves Saint Laurent retrospective. It was a warm spring morning, and as I looked down at the fawn-colored gravel at my feet, I wondered if I should be squandering my scant time in Paris waiting in line. I did, and it was worth it. For me, Yves Saint Laurent combined emotion and elegance in his designs. A woman wearing his clothing was always properly dressed, but YSL’s wit and passion — he didn’t shy away from hot pink and hearts — stirred a little of the bohemian into the bourgeois. Dawn Spencer Hurwitz does the same in her fragrances for Denver’s Yves Saint Laurent Exhibition. Ligne Trapèze and Le Smoking are my favorites.

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz created six fragrances to complement the YSL exhibition. Three of them — The Beat Look, Euphorisme d’Opium, and La Vie en Rose — summon Yves Saint Laurent Y, Opium, and Paris respectively. (I only tested these briefly, but The Beat Look especially begs for more wear.) The other three fragrances were inspired by iconic YSL designs. An evening coat sparked Ma Plus Belle Histoire d’Amour, an airy wisteria and linden fragrance. Ligne Trapèze stemmed from YSL’s 1958 collection “Trapèze,” and Le Smoking from the iconic Tuxedo-inspired pant suit for women which he launched in 1966 and featured in several couture and prêt-à-porter collections after…

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Perfume and the Power of Suggestion

Posted by Angela on 18 June 2012 190 Comments

Pepe Le Pew

Kevin attached a note to a perfume sample he sent me this week. “Angie: this smells like a skunk eating a donut!” it said. Without Kevin’s suggestion, I might have simply written the perfume off as a funky orange blossom. Now I’ll never be able to smell this fragrance without picturing Pepé Le Pew tucking into a cruller.

Then there was Robin’s review of L’Artisan Parfumeur Nuit de Tubéreuse. She cannily pointed out a Juicy Fruit note in the fragrance. When I read the review, I already had a bottle of the fragrance and already loved it. But from then on I’ve never been able to shake the association with foil-wrapped strips of gum…

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