• About
  • Login to comment
    • Bluesky
    • RSS
    • Twitter

Now Smell This

a blog about perfume

Menu ▼
  • Perfume Reviews
  • New Perfumes
  • Archives
Browsing by author: Angela

Guerlain Coriolan ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 13 August 2012 47 Comments

Guerlain Coriolan advert

A spray of Guerlain Coriolan, and right away I smell the high desert on a summer’s evening, the time when the ground still holds the hot scent of the earth while the wind is cool and fresh. The earth smells of hot rock, pinyon pine, immortelle, dry wood, and the piney sage that grows gnarled on the ground. The breeze delivers the bite of mint, citrus and fennel. Somehow the cool air and hot landscape meld into a singular fragrance. Coriolan reminds me of eastern Montana in August.

Jean-Paul Guerlain created Coriolan, and it was released in 1998. It’s a woody chypre with notes including lemon tree leaves, bergamot, juniper, absinthe, coriander, nutmeg, oakmoss, patchouli and everlasting flower. I also smell dry wood, amber, musk, and what I swear is mint.

Coriolan bombed. Despite its gorgeous bottle, caged in pink-gold metal with a flip-top lid, sales were weak enough for Guerlain to pull Coriolan before too long…

Read the rest of this article »

Rochas Mousseline ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 6 August 2012 118 Comments

Rochas Mousseline perfume advert

Clams casino, handwritten diaries, gold lamé house shoes, paper dictionaries: certain things are slipping away. To some of these I wave a hearty goodbye — that would be you, dial-up modem — but other changes I note with a pang. Sure, some of the regret is pure nostalgia. I love the full-throated trill of a dial telephone, for example. But some of it is a lament for changes in fashion, in what’s considered beautiful. That’s how I feel about some perfume. No publicly traded company in its right mind would make a heartbreaker of a chypre like Rochas Mousseline these days. That’s too bad.

Perfumer Edmond Roudnitska developed Mousseline, and Rochas released it in 1946, just two years after Rochas Femme. Information on Mousseline is scarce. My parfum is at least 45 years old — quite possibly older — but it’s clearly a fruity chypre and Femme’s little sister. My “flacon sac” perfume came in a tiny, black lace printed splash bottle accompanied by an inch-and-a-half long eyedropper for extracting the precious extrait.

I picture a woman settling into her car after a day of shopping…

Read the rest of this article »

Fragrance concentrations: sorting it all out ~ perfumista tip

Posted by Angela on 30 July 2012 80 Comments

After last week’s battering of celebrity perfume reviews, I decided I needed a bottle of something nice. Cartier Baiser Volé, to be precise. But buying it wasn’t as simple as choosing a size and proffering a credit card. Baiser Volé comes in Eau de Toilette, Eau de Parfum and Extrait de Parfum. How do you choose between different formulations of the same fragrance?

As the FAQs page at Now Smell This lays out in more detail, different formulations of the same fragrance have different concentrations of the perfume base, with an Eau Fraïche containing the least amount and Extrait the most. Knowing this, you might think choosing a formulation would depend on how strong you want the fragrance or how long you want it to last. In fact, it’s not that simple.

First, lasting power (also called “persistence”) has more to do with the materials used in a fragrance than with its concentration…

Read the rest of this article »

Antonio Banderas Blue Seduction for Women ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 27 July 2012 50 Comments

Antonio Banderas Blue Seduction for Women

At the Antonio Banderas perfume website, you can take a quiz to help you select one of the many Antonio Banderas fragrances. Accompanied by a photo of Banderas casting a smoldering gaze, the quiz asks, “Tell me about yourself and I will tell you which fragrance will best suit your personality.” I can hear Banderas’s accent now. And he wants me to tell him about myself! I know I’m blushing.

The first question asks simply whether I’m a man or a woman. Easy. The next — and final — question asks me to choose from one of seven adjectives to describe myself. (Men get nineteen options.) I’m a little disappointed he doesn’t want to know more about me — I could tell him about my childhood, share my love of macaroni and cheese, show him my scars — but I’m game anyway. What should it be? Am I “casual,” “magnetic,” “spontaneous”? With another glance at Antonio’s black-fringed eyes, I choose “sensuous.” The website spits out its suggestion: Blue Seduction for Women.

Ah, Antonio. I guess we were never meant to be…

Read the rest of this article »

Celine Dion Sensational ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 26 July 2012 82 Comments

Celine Dion Sensational fragrance advert

So far this week we’ve reviewed one teenaged celebrity’s fragrance and one from a country western star. Now we move to Las Vegas and multi-octave ballads with Celine Dion Sensational.

I can’t name one of Celine Dion’s songs except for the one that went with the movie Titanic. The only reason I remember that song is because two of my cousins chose it to play as they walked up the aisle at their double wedding. They were both hugely pregnant. When they met their grooms at the altar and swung their white satin-draped bellies to face each other, the connection between mammoth sea vessels and their nuptials became apparent, and the Celine Dion song was stuck in my brain for good.

I am, however, more familiar with Sensational’s perfumer, Maurice Roucel. Roucel is responsible for such terrific fragrances as Frédéric Malle Dans Tes Bras and Musc Ravageur, Hermès 24 Faubourg, Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist, Rochas Tocade, and more you’d certainly recognize…

Read the rest of this article »

« Newer articles
Older articles »

Advertisement

Search

Recent reviews

Atelier Cologne Love Osmanthus
Moschino Toy Boy
Arquiste Misfit
Diptyque Eau Capitale
Zoologist Bee
Parfum d’Empire Immortelle Corse
Comme des Garcons Series 10 Clash
Frédéric Malle Rose & Cuir
L’Artisan Parfumeur Le Chant de Camargue
Yves Saint Laurent Grain de Poudre
Régime des Fleurs Chloë Sevigny Little Flower
Chanel 1957
Gallivant Los Angeles
Amouage Portrayal Woman

Blogroll

Bois de Jasmin
Grain de Musc
Perfume Posse
The Non-Blonde
More blogs...

Perfumista lists

100 fragrances every perfumista should try
And 25 more fragrances every perfumista should smell
50 masculine fragrances every perfumista should try
26 vintage fragrances every perfumista should try
25 rose fragrances every perfumista should try
11 Cheap Perfumes Beauty Outsiders Love

Favorite posts

The Great Perfume Reduction Plan
Why I Love Old School Chypres
New to perfume and want to learn more?
How to make fragrance last through the day
Fragrance concentrations: sorting it all out
On reformulations, or why your favorite perfume doesn’t smell like it used to
How to get fragrance samples
Perfume for Life: How Long Will Your Fragrance Collection Last?

Upcoming

List of upcoming Friday projects

6 January ~ damage poll

31 January ~ winter reading poll

Back to Top

Home
Archives
About Now Smell This :: Privacy Policy
Perfume Reviews
New Perfumes
General Perfume Articles
The Monday Mail

Glossary of Perfume Terms
Perfume FAQ
Perfume Books

Noses ~ Perfumers A-E :: F-K :: L-S :: T-Z

Perfume Houses A-B :: C :: D-E :: F-G
H-J :: K-L :: M :: N-O :: P :: Q-R :: S
T :: U-Z

Copyright © 2005-2026 Now Smell This. All rights reserved.