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Browsing by author: Angela

Parfumerie General Coze ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 4 March 2013 24 Comments

Parfumerie General Coze

Poor, beleaguered patchouli. Once considered luxurious enough to scent Queen Victoria’s linen closets, patchouli now prompts people turn up their noses and mutter “head shop.” Of course, we fragrance lovers are smarter than that, right? We know patchouli’s woody-herbal aroma lends depth to chypres and earthiness to orientals. Sure, patchouli is that extra something that takes a fruity floral from boring to vile (take that, Calvin Klein Euphoria), but it’s also the soul of elegant fragrances such as Serge Lutens Borneo 18341 — and Parfumerie Générale Coze.

Coze, by Pierre Guillaume, launched in 2002 and has notes of canapa sativa seed oil (i.e. cannabis), pepper, pimento, coffee, ebony wood, chocolate and bourbon vanilla pods. If the list of notes brings to mind a Montale Patchouli Leaves café mocha, think again. Coze is as dry as a brown Necco wafer…

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Ann Gerard Cuir de Nacre ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 25 February 2013 46 Comments

Ann Gérard Cuir de Nacre

Ann Gérard Cuir de Nacre is one of my favorite types of fragrances — a leather chypre — by one of the perfumers whose work intrigues me most, Bertrand Duchaufour. When I opened my decant, I wanted to be swept away by Cuir de Nacre’s beauty. But then again, it wouldn’t be so terrible if it smelled enough like other leather perfumes to spare my wallet.

I’ve worn Cuir de Nacre for a week and half now. Does it deserve a spot on my “must have” list? Here are my criteria and how Cuir de Nacre matches up:

It must smell divine. Cuir de Nacre’s notes include angelica root, ambrette, aldehydic ozonic notes, cassie, iris concrete, leather accord, sandalwood, white musk and styrax. Cuir de Nacre’s soft leather and iris ride in on a cloud of aldehydes with a tickle of peppery angelica root. As the fragrance settles, the cassie (also known as mimosa) adds its strange and slightly fetid buzz to the mix. And is Cuir de Nacre ever mossy. Moss lovers will definitely want to sniff how moss cushions the fragrance, puffing and peeking out like a crinoline a touch longer than its suede skirt…

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Miller Harris La Pluie ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 18 February 2013 52 Comments

Miller Harris La Pluie

Living in the Pacific Northwest, I’m more than familiar with the scent of rain. Wet asphalt, damp wool, slicked pine trees, moist dog — I know them all. To me, Miller Harris La Pluie doesn’t have much to do with rain, at least not with rain in my part of the world. Instead, it smells like something much more wonderful: Revlon Moon Drops perfume, my grandmother’s favorite.

Miller Harris released La Pluie in 2011. Lyn Harris created it, and the fragrance has notes of tangerine, lavender, “wet” white flowers, ylang ylang, vetiver and bourbon vanilla. Initially, La Pluie is an aldehydic whoosh of tangerine and lavender with the ylang ylang already showing. Its citrus isn’t overtly juicy but leaves a dulled tangerine residue tinged with resinous lavender.

For the first twenty minutes or so on skin, except for the aldehydes and the top edge of the citrus, it doesn’t smell much like my grandmother’s Moon Drops. But once La Pluie’s moist, powdery, slightly spicy heart kicks in, Moon Drops comes back…

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Awful Perfume You Love

Posted by Angela on 11 February 2013 547 Comments

Prise d'Alamût

Do you adore any awful perfume? Of course, if you like it the perfume isn’t awful to you. But do you love any fragrances that are generally regarded as terrible? It’s confession time.

I don’t mean cheap fragrances. Coty Sand & Sable, Dana Tabu, and Revlon Jean Naté, regardless of their packaging, are all completely respectable in my mind. Heck, it’s even chic to have favorites from Walgreen’s. Some people — probably the same who loudly boast they had pigs in a (likely gluten-free) blanket last night or who seek out hipster-renovated trailer parks on vacation — give a fragrance a few extra points for being both old school and down-market. No, I mean perfume that the average perfumista crinkles her nose at.

I’ll admit mine: Lorenzo Villoresi Alamut…

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Guerlain L’Heure de Nuit ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 4 February 2013 48 Comments

Guerlain L'Heure de Nuit

Guerlain L’Heure Bleue is the rare fragrance with an undeniable signature. It is sweet and romantic but freakily medicinal, too. It has just as much presence as one of Guerlain’s other singular fragrances, Shalimar. But like the shape-shifting light between day and night, the time for which the fragrance is named, L’Heure Bleue’s mood is less mysterious than Shalimar’s and more magical.

In Thierry Wasser’s modern interpretation of L’Heure Bleue, he’s bumped back its eponymous time a few hours and called it L’Heure de Nuit. After smelling L’Heure de Nuit, I would have named it for a cheerful part of the day, a time filled with sun and cake. Maybe L’Heure de Your Coworker Brought In Cookies This Morning. Or, given L’Heure de Nuit’s streak of clean musk, L’Heure de Laundromat…

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