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Browsing by author: Angela

Tauer Perfumes Noontide Petals ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 8 April 2013 58 Comments

Tauer Perfumes Noontide Petals

By chance, I ended up with samples of Tauer Perfumes Noontide Petals and Hermès Jour d’Hermès the same week. Here were two fragrances embodying floral bouquets, created by two very different noses. Naturally, the fragrances don’t smell alike, but I didn’t expect that. What struck me was the distinctly divergent shape and feel each perfume takes on skin. Sometimes what’s most compelling about a fragrance is how it feels.

Noontide Petals, by Andy Tauer, has top notes of aldehydes and Bourbon geranium; heart notes of rose, ylang ylang, tuberose and jasmine; and what Tauer astutely calls “body” notes of patchouli, frankincense, vanilla, sandalwood, iris, styrax and vetiver.

Noontide Petals’ aldehydes kick off the fragrance with a fizz, but aldehydic floral-phobes, don’t fear — this fragrance is no airy Chanel…

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Robert Piguet Baghari ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 1 April 2013 25 Comments

Baghari by Robert Piguet, advert

As much as I admire ruffles and lettuce-edged hems, I know they don’t suit me. Similarly, the thin-boned elegance of some aldehydic florals such as Chanel No. 5 doesn’t sit right on me, either. Yet, I’m a sucker for a fragrance with a retro feel, and richly aldehydic florals scream 1950s silhouettes and kidskin gloves.

At last I discovered that not all aldehydic florals are No. 5 clones. Instead, some are warm and boast plenty of flesh. Robert Piguet Baghari is one of those.

Baghari, developed in 1950 by perfumer Francis Fabron (also the nose behind Givenchy L’Interdit and Nina Ricci L’Air du Temps), had been long discontinued when the Robert Piguet perfume house hired Aurélien Guichard to reorchestrate it in 2006…

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Cartier Baiser Vole Eau de Toilette and Extrait de Parfum ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 25 March 2013 43 Comments

Cartier Baiser Volé Eau de Toilette

I know, I know. Now Smell This already posted a thorough review of Cartier Baiser Volé. But that was for the Eau de Parfum. Baiser Volé is one of the few perfumes that really explores the fragrance’s idea through its other formulations. While a review of the Eau de Parfum gives you an idea of Baiser Volé’s theme — lilies in the style of Carole Lombard’s boudoir, complete with silver hairbrush and face powder — the Eau de Toilette and Extrait de Parfum aren’t simply different concentrations. Instead, they take the Eau de Parfum’s “main tune” and orchestrate it differently.

Cartier house perfume Mathilde Laurent created Baiser Volé in each of its forms. Cartier is vague about the fragrance’s notes, spouting pap about how the fragrance embraces each aspect of the lily: stem, petals, and root. Besides lily, I get hints of neroli, powder, jasmine, and musk.

Baiser Volé Eau de Parfum is the most sober form of the fragrance. It shows Baiser Volé’s powdery glamour of deconstructed lilies in a way that makes me long for my own dressing room, satin coverlet, and stack of 1930s movies. It’s beautiful, for sure. But it’s also humorless…

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The Next Bottle of Perfume You Buy

Posted by Angela on 18 March 2013 148 Comments

shopping list pads

How do you decide what bottle of perfume you’ll buy next? Given perfume’s cost, it’s probably not be a decision you take lightly. I know I don’t. At least, most of the time I don’t.

Over the past few years, my perfume expenditures have dwindled. Where I used to buy at least a bottle a month, now I might buy a bottle every six months. When I first fell down the perfume rabbit hole, every grand perfume with a history attracted me, plus I was a sucker for a good review. I bought with abandon, including a lot of bottles I hadn’t sniffed. I ended up with a perfume wardrobe of at least half “fine but not fabulous” bottles, most of which I’ve since swapped or given away.

Eventually I became more choosy and started keeping a “to buy” list. My theory was this: I’d sample a fragrance, and if I liked it I’d order a decant or cadge another few samples to give it a good long test run. When the samples or decant ran out, if I still loved the fragrance I’d record it on my “to buy” list. Then, when I had both cash and a hole in my perfume collection corresponding to the kind of perfume on the list, I’d buy it…

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Bottega Veneta Eau Legere ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 11 March 2013 45 Comments

Bottega Veneta Eau Legère

Where I live, this past weekend brought a few days of false spring. The sky shone rich azure, windows through the neighborhood flew open, and birds came out in legions, singing fiercely and hopping through the garden. I craved asparagus, fava beans, sorrel — and a lighter, fresher fragrance. It was the perfect time to crack out my sample of Bottega Veneta Eau Legère.

Perfumer Michel Almairac developed Eau Legère as a flanker to Bottega Veneta Eau de Parfum. Bottega Veneta describes it as a “leathery floral chypre” with notes of gardenia, musk, and oak moss.

I’m a fan of the original Bottega Veneta and bought a bottle within a week of smelling it. It’s a jammy blend of apricot, suede, and patchouli that weaves a cashmere blanket of scent. Bottega Veneta has a definite presence, and it’s a warm, approachable, comforting aura I’m complimented on nearly every time I wear it. But I can’t imagine wearing it in warm weather. It’s just plain too thick.

Enter Eau Legère…

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