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Browsing by author: Angela

Le Labo Ylang 49 ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 17 June 2013 75 Comments

Le Labo Ylang 49 & Lys 41

Ask me what I think of new fragrances these days, and prepare for a rant. “What happened to real perfume?” I’ll moan. “People used to appreciate smart fragrances. Perfume could be abstract and complex.” At that point I’ll drop my head and stare forlornly in the distance, trying my best to telegraph visions of forgotten Lanvins and Millots.

Thank goodness I’m so often wrong. For all the old beauties that have fallen out of production, gorgeous new perfumes are still being created. Le Labo Ylang 49 is real perfume.

Perfumer Frank Voelkl created Ylang 49. It has notes of ylang ylang, Pua Noa Noa,1 patchouli, oakmoss, sandalwood and benzoin. What Ylang 49 doesn’t smell like is an ylang ylang soliflore. The caramelized cold cream aroma of ylang ylang plays only a supporting role. What Ylang 49 does smell like is an honest-to-goodness floral chypre…

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Day to Night Perfume for Summer

Posted by Angela on 10 June 2013 28 Comments

Wildwood NJ postcard

A few weeks ago in the lunchroom at work, an off-duty drag queen and I swapped perfume insight. Austin — better known as Alexis Campbell Starr and Miss Gay Portland 2013 — said he favors an Adidas cologne during the day. When he transforms into Alexis, he tops the Adidas off with a few sprays of a Playboy fragrance. “I like how they blend,” he said. (I see Alexis in a glamorous Dior, maybe one of the Poisons. We’ll talk later.)

Yet again, a drag queen and I see eye to eye. When night falls and I want a perfume with more presence or mystery, I often try to find something that plays off an aspect of the day’s fragrance. That way, whatever’s left of my perfume doesn’t grate with my later choice.

Here are a few of my summer day-to-evening perfume selections:

L’Artisan Parfumeur Ananas Fizz to Jean Patou Colony: Ananas Fizz is an easy choice for a warm day. It’s sheer and playful with pineapple and gentle flowers cooled by vetiver. (And hurray that L’Artisan has resurrected it!) A dab of the pineapple chypre, Colony, is the perfect way to deepen and “sultrify” it for evening…

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Lubin Korrigan, Galaad & Akkad ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 3 June 2013 16 Comments

Lubin Korrigan packagingLubin Korrigan bottle, front view

Three fragrance launches by the same perfume house at the same time can be overwhelming. When samples of Lubin Korrigan, Galaad and Akkad Eaux de Parfum arrived, it was easy to toss them aside with the intention of giving them a thorough going-over some time later. “Later” turned into months.

This week, discouraged by a few department store fragrances I sampled and couldn’t bear, I dug out the Lubins. My faith in modern perfumery is restored.

Korrigan was developed by perfumer Thomas Fontaine and has notes of leather, wild apple, juniper, saffron, cognac, lavender, ambrette, cedar, oud, vetiver and musk. Supposedly, Fontaine modeled the fragrance after an imaginary tree called “Caramel Wood.” From that description, I expected a sweet, two-dimensional fragrance…

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The Cranky Perfumista (with apologies to the Cursing Mommy and no actual cursing)

Posted by Angela on 28 May 2013 42 Comments

broken glass

Hello, fellow perfume lovers, and welcome to the Cranky Perfumista’s show on how to select your fragrance of the day. Please, come in to my elegant boudoir and — no! — don’t sit there! Holy mother of Bob. Well, that leftover casserole was growing mold anyway. I hope your skirt isn’t real silk. Just wipe it off and knock the rest on the floor. Hortense, my maid, will deal with it later.

So, where was I? Oh yes. Selecting a perfume. When deciding on a fragrance, first consider the day you have ahead. Me, I’ll be planning a top-drawer society event, the wedding of one of the town’s most important car dealers to his daughter’s best friend. (I’ve already managed three of his prior weddings, including the one with live doves and a special performance by the Redskinettes.) We’ll be discussing what work of art the live chainsaw ice sculpture artist will create during the reception.

I guess you’ll be selecting perfume for a trip to the dry cleaner’s, but this isn’t about you, is it…

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Lancome Miracle and Estee Lauder Intuition ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 20 May 2013 94 Comments

La Reine Victoria rose

My garden is crazy with roses these days. They splash pink and mauve near the street and waft fruity, peppery fragrance to my neighbors’ porches. I’m greedy with them, and four vases of Madame Isaac Pereire, La Reine Victoria, and Jude the Obscure in varying stages of decrepitude crowd the dining room table (I love their perfume best just as they start to shrivel), and another few vases are crammed on the mantle.

But other than on the stem, the scent of roses doesn’t move me. Sure, I love the occasional spritz of Guerlain Nahéma when I’m feeling over the top, and a dose of Parfum d’Empire Eau Suave is marvelously fresh on a warm day, but otherwise rose can feel institutional and even dowdy. But now, when my garden is flush with roses, it seems right to revisit two often overlooked rose-centered fragrances: Lancôme Miracle and Estée Lauder Intuition…

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