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Browsing by author: Angela

Lanvin Arpege ~ vintage fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 10 March 2014 34 Comments

Lanvin Arpege bottle

Vintage Lanvin Arpège has broken my heart more than once. From its inception in 1927 to its major reformulation in 1993, Arpège was well loved, which means that plenty of bottles lurk in thrift stores and antiques malls. The problem is that unlike her sister, My Sin, Arpège doesn’t age well. At last, after bearing the grief of one small Extrait turned to sour Madeira, one evaporated Extrait purse spray, and two fusty Arpège Eau de Toilettes, I found a bottle of Eau de Toilette that opens my eyes to what made Arpège so beloved. I’m hooked.

In 1927 to celebrate her daughter’s thirtieth birthday, Jeanne Lanvin asked André Fraysse — Lanvin’s house chemist — to create Arpège…

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Ys Uzac Satin Doll ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 3 March 2014 11 Comments

Ys Uzac Satin Doll

A “spicy iris modern chypre” that “exquisitely mirrors Duke Ellington’s unforgettable masterpiece”? I adore iris, chypres, and Duke Ellington. Sign me up! At least, this is what I thought when I read the launch announcement about Ys Uzac Satin Doll in July. Satin Doll’s PR copy included another teaser, saying that the iris was “embraced by a bitter and dry tuberose.” I adore tuberose, too, but often it doesn’t sit right on me. Maybe a bitter and dry tuberose would be just the ticket. The rest of Satin Doll’s notes are entrancing, too. Besides iris and tuberose, they include pink pepper, elemi, pepper, rose, jasmine, myrrh, incense, patchouli, opoponax, and benzoin. Really, doesn’t this perfume sound perfect?

Sadly for me, although Satin Doll is nice, it doesn’t communicate the beauty, swing, and freakiness of Ellington’s song…

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Canvas & Concrete fragrance primer ~ product review

Posted by Angela on 24 February 2014 57 Comments

Canvas & Concrete fragrance primer

Canvas & Concrete: Is it a new Comme des Garçons fragrance? The recipe for a DIY bomb shelter? No, Canvas & Concrete is a fragrance primer designed so that “scent will not mix with your ph or body funk” and “the scent is true to what you smelled in store or in a magazine and what the designer intended.” All over the product’s box and website is splashed “lasts all night.”

I’d like to believe I’m reasonably funk-free, and I prefer my fragrances to smell like they came from a bottle and not a magazine’s scent strip. Plus, at night when Canvas & Concrete purports to be doing its major work, I’m normally sleeping. But I do wear perfume during the day, and I was eager to give Canvas & Concrete a try. I love reapplying fragrance — a different fragrance, usually — after the office and when I’m home, but some of my favorite scents vanish well before lunch. Could Canvas & Concrete work for them…

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Mikmoi Vesper ~ fragrance review (and cocktail recipe)

Posted by Angela on 17 February 2014 20 Comments

mikmoi-vesper-top-s

To me, one of the most compelling aspects of fragrance is what an illusion the whole thing can be. Like the image that can be either a crone or a maiden depending on how you squint your eyes, a perfume can often smell like two things at once. Mikmoi Vesper is like that. Depending on the angle from which I approach it, Vesper smells like suede and rose or like a fresh crushed fig leaf. Either way, it’s intriguing.

Mikmoi is a San Francisco-based indie perfumery run by nose Michael Coyle, who goes by “Mik.” Coyle studied with Mandy Aftel and Yosh Han before launching Mikmoi…

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Xerjoff Join the Club ~ fragrance mini-reviews

Posted by Angela on 10 February 2014 29 Comments

Xerjoff Join the Club

Here’s the concept: Each of Xerjoff’s ten Join the Club (or JTC) fragrances is an olfactory homage to a particular hobby. When you buy one of them, you get a code that gives you access to a website with “exclusive initiatives” about the hobby to which your perfume is linked. Golf, sailing, theater, meditation, cigars, jazz, poetry, fashion, horse racing and traveling each has its own JTC fragrance.

Well. A beautiful fragrance doesn’t need a gimmick to sell it, and as soon as I read the description, my snark machine fired up. On the other hand, Xerjoff doesn’t usually skimp on materials, and although many of their fragrances are conservative to my nose, I really like a few of them…

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