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Browsing by author: Angela

Tom Ford Velvet Orchid ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 16 June 2014 87 Comments

Tom Ford Velvet Orchid banner

The old saying has it that “everything old is new again.” Tom Ford Velvet Orchid, a salute to the grand oriental perfumes of the 1980s, seems to have taken that saying to heart. Lovers of Yves Saint Laurent Opium, Estée Lauder Cinnabar, Boucheron de Boucheron, and other room-permeating, spicy-woody-ambery fragrances will want to give it a try. Fans of Velvet Orchid’s older sibling, Black Orchid, will probably see no reason to switch.

Velvet Orchid’s notes include bergamot, mandarin, honey, vanilla, orange blossom, rose, jasmine, narcissus, magnolia, Cattleya leopoldii orchid, heliotrope, rum, suede, labdanum, sandalwood, and myrrh — not that any of these notes stand out distinctly. Even without the gorgeous deco bottle and “orchid” in its name, a single whiff ties Velvet Orchid to Black Orchid.

Although Velvet Orchid has the guts to take the ring with any of the big orientals, it’s billed as a floriental fragrance…

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How to smell like a million bucks

Posted by Angela on 9 June 2014 93 Comments

stack of money

In last week’s comments on the Guerlain Parure review, the idea of smelling “like a million bucks” arose. It got me thinking. What does it mean to smell rich?

Of course, we all know that just because a fragrance costs a lot of money doesn’t mean it smells expensive. First, practically every fragrance outside the drugstore costs a packet, yet they convey messages ranging from “I found a fragrance that expresses who I am, and I love it” to “I don’t have a mind of my own and will buy whatever smells bearable at first whiff” to “I’m a fifty-cent hooker.” (Sadly, you can spend hundreds of dollars to smell like a fifty-cent hooker.) Conversely, some relatively inexpensive fragrances could successfully waft through the halls of the fanciest opera houses, in my opinion. Balenciaga Le Dix, Rochas Madame Rochas, and Faith Hill by Faith Hill all smell like class to me, yet all can be found online for a fraction of what you’d pay for a new fragrance in a department store…

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Guerlain Parure ~ vintage fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 2 June 2014 60 Comments

Guerlain Parure advert

A “parure” is a set of jewelry, such as a necklace, earrings, and bracelet, or even a tiara and matching earrings. Guerlain Parure has the “complete” feeling and attention to detail of a fine jewelry parure, but it isn’t as flashy as rubies and diamonds. Instead, Parure comes off as constructed to lend an air of Ritz suite elegance without drawing attention to itself.

Jean-Paul Guerlain created Parure, and its notes include plum, bergamot, greens, fruits, hesperides, lily of the valley, rose, orris, plum, lilac, jasmine, jonquil, narcissus, oakmoss, spices, amber, leather and patchouli. Parure was released in 1975, but you know that Ritz suite I just mentioned? I see it in the early 1960s, with a woman crushing out her cigarette before reaching for wrist-length white gloves and a crisp-edged handbag that snaps shut with a click…

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Perfume in Magazines: Seventeen, August 1967

Posted by Angela on 26 May 2014 48 Comments

Seventeen mag, August 1967 cover and Chanel ad

After perusing a Seventeen magazine from August 1967, I’ve come away with three observations: First, plaid was in. Second, so were Orlon, Dacron, Dynel, Kodel, Avril Rayon, and something called Celanese acetate. Finally, teenagers sure had sophisticated taste in fragrance. This issue, labeled “Your World in the Greatest Fashion Issue Ever!” is a fat one, so let’s get started.

The first perfume ad is a two-pager for Chanel No. 5. It features a man in a skinny tie with a football in one hand touching the chin of a blond clad in plaid Orlon. Perfume is $8.50, and Eau de Cologne will set you back $3.50. “Caught…By the spell of Chanel,” it says…

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Parfums MDCI Cuir Garamante & Nuit Andalouse ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 19 May 2014 22 Comments

Parfums MDCI Nuit Andalouse

It’s easy to get spoiled as a perfume enthusiast. After smelling your way through niche lines, you may not even bother with department store offerings unless they’re by Hermès or Chanel or have been getting special attention by tastemakers. Before long, you might find you’ve become like the gourmet who complains about the overly dry truffles in his scrambled eggs, forgetting how many people can’t even scrape together the money for a bowl of oatmeal. Please keep this in mind as I tell you that neither Parfums MDCI Cuir Garamante nor Nuit Andalouse tempted me.

Nose Richard Ibanez composed Cuir Garamante. Its notes feature pink pepper, nutmeg, saffron, rose, oud accord, papyrus, leather, vanilla, labdanum, incense and sandalwood. Once the tingly top of Cuir Garamante wears down, a thick, funky leather with a touch of sweetness emerges — for about ten minutes. Then it’s as if the perfumer stood, hands on hips, in his lab and said, “What manly notes can I toss in?” Into the pot went every assertive note he could find…

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