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Browsing by author: Angela

Rundholz Parfums Sept.21.1966 ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 23 March 2015 8 Comments

Rundholz Parfums Sept.21.1966 brand image

Have you ever wondered what portion of fragrance sales is due to branding and what part is actually owed to the fragrance itself? This thought crossed my mind when I began investigating Rundholz Parfums Sept.21.1966. The fragrance comes in a stylish cylinder with hip lettering (see below). The Rundholz website features casual, avant garde clothing and shoes with an earthy European, yet hip hop, edge. The perfume’s name is mysterious. (I had to wonder if any of Rundholz’s customers are actually old enough to remember 1966. Maybe stylish Germans trend older than stylish Americans.) Then there’s the enigmatic, beautiful photo of the girl blowing on a dandelion. Does it have anything to do with the fragrance?

We all know it: Nouveau niche fragrances are more common than houseflies these days, and many of them get by — at least initially — through the “cool” factor. A consumer thinks, This brand is cool; this packaging is cool; I’m cool; therefore I will buy this perfume and certify my coolness. More than half the time the perfume is simply not cool…

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Etat Libre d’Orange True Lust ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 17 March 2015 6 Comments

Etat Libre d'Orange True Lust, brand image

One of the hazards of reviewing fragrances for so long is that I can’t always remember what I’ve sampled. When I read that Etat Libre d’Orange True Lust combined Putain des Palaces and Dangerous Complicity, I drew a blank on what that might smell like. I even had to go back to confirm that I’d reviewed Putain des Palaces at all.

On rereading the reviews, it started to come back. Both fragrances are feminine, silk-stocking-ed sort of perfumes. Putain has a feral kick while Complicity might be the prettier of the two, although it lost my interest as it dried down. Now that I’ve smelled True Lust, I’m not sure why Etat Libre bothered to combine them. All three fragrances are lovely, and none is ferociously different from the other, at least not in mood…

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Why I Love Old School Chypres

Posted by Angela on 9 March 2015 207 Comments

Cyprus Lemnos), Theatrum Orbis Terrarum by Abraham Ortelius

Many people recoil at a whiff of an old school chypre. A chypre’s citrus-oakmoss-labdanum-patchouli signature doesn’t pander and can be downright off-putting for the inexperienced. Grand chypres are so old fashioned. They rarely seduce you with mouthwatering berries and Orange Crush-like fruit. They don’t flaunt their sexiness with blatant oriental notes. They waft fusty oak moss. I get it. I understand all the repugnance. And I love old school chypres just the same.

When I say “old school chypre,” I mean a big chypre, a chypre that doesn’t hide its identity under woody musk. Some of the classic old school chypres, besides Rochas Femme and Guerlain Mitsouko (perhaps the benchmarks), are Christian Dior Miss Dior (now called Miss Dior Classic), Acqua di Parma Profumo, Chanel Cristalle, Hermès Calèche, Niki de Saint Phalle, Nina Ricci Fille d’Eve and Balmain Miss Balmain, to name a few…

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Oriza L. Legrand Violettes du Czar & Heliotrope Blanc ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Angela on 2 March 2015 18 Comments

Oriza L. Legrand Violettes du Czar & Heliotrope Blanc

Some people might not understand why you’d want to wear a soliflore. After all, why smell like one flower — a flower you’re probably already familiar with — when you could smell like an original blend of notes? Following that logic, there would be no reason to look at paintings of the ocean once you’ve seen the real thing, even though seascapes vary in styles — think of those by Turner, Homer and Hokusai. If I had to pin a style to the Oriza L. Legrand soliflores Violettes du Czar and Heliotrope Blanc, I’d call them Victorian.

Oriza L. Legrand is a relatively new niche brand with an old history. According to the perfume house’s website, the house was founded in France in 1720 and originally famed for its creams and powders based on rice. Over the years, the brand grew, winning awards and furnishing products for royalty. During World War II, Oriza L. Legrand closed. In 2012, the house was bought and launched again with the mission of reviving the old fragrances…

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Elie Saab Le Parfum Resort Collection ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 23 February 2015 51 Comments

Elie Saab Le Parfum Resort Collection, brand images

Who are these people who shop designer resort collections? I imagine a group of jet setters who demand spanking white capris and sorbet-toned nail polish for their stays in Bermuda or Antigua or wherever the resort collection set go. They pack multiple bikinis, and they invest in gym memberships and waxing regimens so they look good in those bikinis. They have friends with magazine-worthy island homes whose casement windows are eternally open to the sun and sky-blue sea. They drink fruity cocktails on the yacht’s deck.

Sniffing Elie Saab Le Parfum Resort Collection Eau de Toilette — whew! let’s just call it “Resort” for short — leads me to think that perfumer Francis Kurkdjian had a similar vision of this (to me, anyway) mythical community. Resort’s notes include orange blossom, jasmine, frangipani, fig, cedar and amber. It’s a well-heeled tropical party in a bottle…

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