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Browsing by author: Angela

Estee Lauder Knowing ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 8 June 2015 56 Comments

Elizabeth Hurley and Paulina Porizkova for Estée Lauder Knowing

According to the Estée Lauder website, “When on a holiday trip in the south of France, Evelyn Lauder was intrigued with a floral scent that wafted through the garden below her balcony. She searched for the source and found that it was the pittosporum flower, which she immediately knew could be the floral center of a wonderful fragrance.” That fragrance was Estée Lauder Knowing.

Perfume enthusiasts recognize Knowing as one of the few department store fragrances that earned five stars in Perfumes: The Guide. And it’s not the perfume’s pittosporum (one family of pittosporum is romantically named “cheesewood,” by the way) that draws admiration, it’s Knowing’s elegant and complex treatment of rose and moss…

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Estee Lauder Spellbound ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 1 June 2015 47 Comments

Estee Lauder Spellbound advert

Down at my local Nordstrom this week, to my surprise I found the classic Estée Lauders packaged in new bottles among the regular perfume offerings. In the past, if I wanted to sniff Azurée or Estée, for instance, I had to ask at the cosmetics counter and hope there was a tester hidden away somewhere. But now, here they were, lined up like little perfume soldiers in plain sight. I asked for a sample of Spellbound.

I chose Spellbound because a few commenters on my post on Old School Chypres mentioned it. To me, Spellbound isn’t a chypre at all, but a massive warm peach- and orange flower-infused oriental that probably draws boatloads of fans, and leaves as many people holding their noses in disgust…

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How to Choose a Signature Scent, Part 2

Posted by Angela on 25 May 2015 34 Comments

Parfums Carrere Signature

Now that we’ve deepened your understanding of perfume in preparation for finding your signature scent (see part 1), it’s time to get down to strategy. Store shelves groan with perfume. How do you choose “the one”?

My guess is that most people duck into perfume shops and department stores and try whatever catches their fancy at the moment, hope they’ll be struck will love. That might work. Possibly. Maybe providence will toss a perfume in your path that will grab you and demand to be worn everyday.

But maybe it won’t. A surer path would be to explore the offerings of a single perfume house, then to apply whatever you learn to finding the fragrance that resonates with you most…

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How to Choose a Signature Fragrance, Part One

Posted by Angela on 18 May 2015 70 Comments

Carrere Signature

When people learn that I write about perfume, I can usually count on two questions: “What’s your favorite perfume?” and “Can you recommend a fragrance for me? I want a signature scent.” Forget about naming a favorite perfume. That’s a moving target. But for everyone who’s asked me to recommend a fragrance, this post is for you.

Before heading off to a boutique to find a signature scent, it’s helpful to know a few things about perfume. To me, it’s most important to understand that perfume is an art, like music or painting. Just as you probably winced the first time you heard opera and puzzled at your first Jackson Pollack, there’s a good chance you won’t initially appreciate all of a fragrance’s subtleties. When a perfumista friend raves about Guerlain Mitsouko, all you might smell is “grandma” — or worse, “rotting grandma.” That’s okay. Part of the fun of finding perfume you love is exploring a whole new art form…

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The Perfume Garden by Kate Lord Brown ~ book review

Posted by Angela on 11 May 2015 37 Comments

The Perfume Garden by Kate Lord Brown, book cover

I understand why creating a perfumer protagonist is catnip for novelists. Perfume is glamorous, and the art of creating fragrance holds more mystery than, say, playing the cello. But so many novelists butcher perfumery. Often they portray noses as bloodhounds who can sniff a sprig of mint down the block, but they ignore the heart of creating a perfume — beautiful, effective composition.

In The Perfume Garden, Kate Lord Brown avoids this pitfall. Thank you, Brown, for not spending paragraphs having your perfumer heroine wax on about the smell of a carrot that was raised in a field fed by spring water run off through alfalfa fields where a gassy Doberman frolicked…

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