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Browsing by author: Angela

5 perfumes: appreciating the Big Five

Posted by Angela on 21 September 2015 119 Comments

Like much art, some fragrances — especially the complex classics — take time to appreciate fully. At first, you might even find them off-putting. But as you spend time with each fragrance, you begin to appreciate its peculiar nature, its singular beauty. That describes how I’ve felt about the perfumes I’m calling the Big Five.

I’ll tell you a little about my relationship with each fragrance, then I’d love to hear how you’ve come to know each of them.

Chanel No. 5

Chanel No. 5

For the longest time, I was convinced I knew all about No. 5. No. 5 was fine, full of straw-tinted jasmine, awash with aldehydes, and charming, if fusty. But it wasn’t for me — or so I thought…

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Tom Ford Noir Pour Femme ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 14 September 2015 60 Comments

Tom Ford Noir Pour Femme brand image

Every once in a while it’s nice to throw restraint to the wind. This is why molten chocolate desserts, lipstick like red patent leather, and Douglas Sirk movies exist. To me, Tom Ford Noir Pour Femme, with its over-the-top nutty sweetness, fits this category.

Noir Pour Femme’s notes include mandarin, bitter orange, ginger, rose absolute, jasmine accord, orange blossom, Indian kulfi accord, Madagascar vanilla, amber, Australian sandalwood, and lentisque resinoid. (Indian kulfi is a rich, dairy-based frozen dessert; lentisque is an evergreen shrub; and a resinoid is the extract of a shrub.) Perfumer Sonia Constant developed it…

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Jean Patou Colony, Ma Collection & Heritage Collection ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 7 September 2015 14 Comments

Jean Patou Colony Heritage Collection

There is now an uneasy feeling in France. The sky grows dark and rumours of war are abroad. There is a longing to be somewhere else. People dream of a warmer sun and wider horizons. As if in answer to these dreams and longings, Jean Patou produces a new scent, Colony — a scent evocative of sun-ripened fruit, the melting aroma of spices and the blue-black manes of Creole girls.

This is the description of Colony, launched in 1938, from the booklet that accompanied the 1984 Jean Patou Ma Collection set of minis of old Patou fragrances, including Colony. To me, it’s a good description of the Ma Collection Colony (assuming that Creole girls’ hair smells like pineapple, of course). I’ve never smelled the original Colony, developed by perfumer Henri Alméras.

The press release accompanying this year’s Jean Patou Héritage Collection reissue of Colony informs us that “The new fragrance will be a modern adaptation of the historic Colony scent.” Reading this sent shivers down my neck…

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Comme des Garcons Floriental ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 31 August 2015 12 Comments

Comme des Garçons Floriental brand image

What does “floriental” mean to you? I think of a warm, ambered fragrance with a classic floral heart and a touch of fruit. I count on baroque flourishes and maybe even a bottle with a tassel dangling from its neck. It won’t surprise you that Comme des Garçons Floriental is none of that. Instead, Floriental purports to center itself on a flower with no scent — the cistus flower — and it is straightforward and linear with a decidedly urban edge. No tassels here.

Floriental’s notes include labdanum, sandalwood, vetiver, incense, pink pepper and plum liqueur. You’ll notice the absence of floral notes in this list, and I don’t smell anything blatantly floral in Floriental, either. Instead, I get a sharp, incense-tinged top floating above a sweet, round sandalwood base with a touch of spice. And that’s about it…

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Miu Miu ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 21 August 2015 42 Comments

Stacy Martin for Miu Miu

In Paris I’ve been lucky to see some of the PR material perfume houses send out. Wow. Marc Jacobs Decadence’s press materials came in a gold-edged black folder designed to look like a purse, complete with tassel and gold chain handle. Chanel Jersey’s press packet was a hand-bound paper booklet with mounted vintage photos, envelopes inserted to open and explore, and close-ups of materials — all on thick, luxurious paper.

Miu Miu’s press materials are especially impressive. Prada sent out a finely made flat box slickly papered in Miu Miu’s signature red and quilted baby blue. The box opens to a sheaf of hard cardboard placards with gold edges and artful images of actress Stacy Martin working Miu Miu’s youthful jolie laide charm. The perfume bottle is darling, and it feels heavy and solid in the hand. On seeing the package, my first thought was: Wow, this is gorgeous. Second thought: This must have cost a fortune, possibly more than the perfume did…

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