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Browsing by author: Angela

Piver Reve d’Or ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 18 September 2017 14 Comments

Piver Rêve d’Or vintage advert

In August, I met up with a friend at Sous le Parasol, a tiny perfume boutique in a decidedly non-chi-chi Parisian neighborhood. The boutique looks like it hasn’t had a branding update since 1966, and its logo and throwback storefront needs only Jeanne Moreau in a trench coat to shine in a nouvelle vague movie.

Naturally, my pulse leapt at Sous le Parasol’s glorious retro-chic décor. But what really got my heart racing were its shelves of cheap thrills. David Hasson, a Spanish perfumer, founded Sous le Parasol in 1936. He stocked his shop with his own colognes and blended them at his laboratory in Burgundy from materials from Grasse. The founder’s son still makes the boutique’s fragrances, and the granddaughter runs it…

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Eric Buterbaugh Floral Oud Orange Flower & Floral Oud Lily of the Valley ~ fragrance review with an aside on luxury

Posted by Angela on 11 September 2017 41 Comments

Having an appetite for beauty but a limited budget has led me to think a lot about luxury. Vogue magazine is happy to show me spreads of thousand-dollar dresses on models reclining on sofas in fancy resorts and pronounce this as luxury. Yes, taste is individual. But it seems luxury is pretty well defined, if you believe the marketing. All you have to do is go to Barneys and proffer a credit card, and luxury is yours.

I refuse to believe that luxury has to be expensive. For instance, with clothing, it’s not unusual that a five-dollar vintage pencil skirt has six darts on both the front and back, recognizing that a woman is three-dimensional. You’d be hard-pressed to find such craftsmanship today, even in the off-the-rack Chanel. A beautifully poached, pasture-raised hen’s egg bursts with luxury (and is something I bet most Gucci evening dress owners rarely experience). Tea in a vintage Japanese ceramic tea cup culled from Goodwill is luxury, too…

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Sylvaine Delacourte Florentina ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 4 September 2017 14 Comments

Sylvaine Delacourte Florentina

When I chose Sylvaine Delacourte Florentina to review, I didn’t know Kevin had already served it papers in his review of the line’s Helicriss, where he called Florentina “the most insufferable of the bunch” of the house’s releases. I understand that. If you don’t like powder and musk, you might well loathe Florentina.

Me? I’m a fan. I love a silky soft, swan’s-down puff of a perfume, and Florentina is all about that. To me, its musk is more about texture and body than about cleaning products…

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Pierre Bourdon Sous les Magnolias and La Fin d’un Ete ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 28 August 2017 21 Comments

I’m a sucker for anything vintage, including vintage perfume. The problem with old things is exactly what makes them so charming: they’re not new. Vintage dresses are sewn with cotton or silk thread that gives, and fabric that shreds with age. An old pulp novel with a gorgeously lurid cover too often has yellowed pages that barely cling to the spine. Similarly, a vintage fragrance, although dream-inspiringly old fashioned, won’t smell as lively as it did when it first left the store shelf fifty years ago.

So, I was especially happy to get to know Pierre Bourdon Sous les Magnolias and La Fin d’un Eté. These fragrances have the charm and character of a vintage Edmond Roudnitska perfume, but they smell crisp and fresh. I can’t remember the last time I bought new perfume, but I came home from Paris with a bottle of each…

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Comme des Garcons Concrete ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 21 August 2017 30 Comments

Comme des Garçons Concrete brand image

Comme des Garçons’ latest fragrance is called Concrete. But Comme des Garçons says the fragrance isn’t about concrete at all — it’s a deconstructed sandalwood. It’s also supposed to evoke New York City. So, which is it?

None of these, if you ask me. To me, Concrete is a sweet and creamy, yet industrial-smelling fragrance, sort of like warm custard in a wet alley near freshly plastered walls…

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