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Browsing by author: Angela

Chanel No. 22 ~ perfume review

Posted by Angela on 31 October 2006 43 Comments

Chanel No. 22 fragrance

If you don’t count my grandmother’s crushed velvet bedspread or the beaded doorway of the bedroom of the prostitute who lived across the street, my life at age fifteen was largely devoid of glamour. I was just learning about perfume, and I’d saved enough from babysitting to buy a bottle of Babe, but I scouted the mall for something more sophisticated, something people who had passports and ate caviar might wear. Then, one day at the mall, I discovered Chanel.

A saleswoman placed testers of Chanel Nos. 5, 19, and 22 on the glass-topped counter, but she pushed the bottle of No. 22 forward. “I think you’ll like this one,” she said. To me, Chanel fragrances were the epitome of chic. They didn’t need an elaborate bottle or television ads of a man pretending to be a prince in a puffy shirt to signal quality. I ended up buying the No. 22 bath oil. The oil was fragrant and much less expensive than the Eau de Toilette. (The prostitute had been terrible about paying her babysitting bill.) The inside of my wrists and behind my ears were well moisturized that year…

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Underappreciated Perfumes

Posted by Angela on 23 October 2006 44 Comments

Niki de Saint Phalle fragranceWith the constant whirlwind of new perfume launches that blows through department stores, it stands to reason that some fragrances won’t get the attention they deserve. After a year or two sitting on the counter at Nordstrom, they’ll be relegated to perfume discounters or discontinued. Surely, among the hundreds of perfumes that don’t make the long haul are some pretty terrific scents, some to be had at bargain prices. But which ones?

Eddie Roschi from Le Labo was quick to identify two underappreciated scents: Cologne de Mugler and Yves Saint Laurent M7. For Cologne de Mugler, whose scent Eddie called “truly outstanding”, he guessed that the scent’s marketing alienated many potential buyers. With the name “cologne”, people expected a classic citrus scent, not the “flashy green mixture” shown through the bottle. Eddie said “The scent itself is addictive, an offbeat interpretation of a cologne, fresh yet very soapy and musky”. As for M7’s lack of popular appeal, Eddie said, “The scent seems unfinished, raw. I think people have been used to smelling so many super facetted scents that this one throws them off. This scent has an amazing signature and to my opinion is one the most magnetic woody orientals”.

At the Perfume House in Portland, one of the saleswomen said that Anne Pliska and Worth Je Reviens don’t get the attention they deserve…

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Perfume and Age

Posted by Angela on 9 October 2006 17 Comments

Vera Wang Princess fragranceIt seems like every fashion magazine these days has an annual age issue or a monthly section on “looks for every age”. In them, women in their 20s must be trendy, women in their 40s are supposed to shell out for Kelly bags and Piaget watches, and women over 50 are doomed to wear only black, white, and jewel tones. Once a woman reaches her mid-30s, she’s supposed to keep skirts below the knees and — even more horrifying — cut her hair. All these “shoulds” have made me think about age and perfume. Are certain fragrances more appropriate for women of certain ages?

Someone who loves scent will almost certainly change her perfume choices as she grows older. I don’t know if this holds up scientifically, but a woman’s sense of smell seems to grow keener as she ages, and women need a canny nose to suss out spoiled food and to detect the first hours of a child’s sickness. A fresh college grad might drink Red Bull and Coke while her mother appreciates a glass of Meursault…

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Notes on New York and Perfume

Posted by Angela on 25 September 2006 22 Comments

Aedes perfume storeLast week I spent a few days in New York City on the way to a friend’s wedding. (By the way, this was the friend for whom I asked your help choosing a wedding fragrance. She ended up wearing Chergui.) What follows is grab bag of mostly perfume-related information I picked up:

Creed’s Angelique Encens, which you can buy at Bergdorf Goodman, was not only Marlene Dietrich’s signature scent, it is also a favorite of Marie Osmond.

Robert, one of only four people in the world trained to present JAR fragrances, can tell you how to make an 8-minute martini that is supposed to be terrific. He also knows where to score a good bottle of scotch.

The Guerlain counter at Bergdorf’s stocks Vega, Philtre d’Amour, Liu, Derby, Plus Que Jamais, Attrape Coeur, and the Arts ets Matières line. Plus, you can try the parfum versions of Vol de Nuit, Shalimar, Mitsouko, and Chamade, among others…

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1933: The Year in Perfume

Posted by Angela on 11 September 2006 13 Comments

Guerlain Vol de Nuit perfumeAs far as years go, 1933 doesn’t stand out the way, say, 1492 does. But in many areas — culture, politics, and a new awareness of the larger world — 1933 was extraordinary. The perfumes of 1933 are extraordinary, too.

1933 falls into the Great Depression, between the Roaring ‘20s and World War Two. In America, communities languished in the wake of Black Monday. In Europe, which still reeled from World War One, fascism was growing and Dachau opened its doors. To escape poverty and fear for a few hours, people flocked to the movies and watched the Marx Brothers in Duck Soup, Fay Wray in King Kong, and Jean Harlow in bias-cut satin in Dinner at Eight. Billie Holiday’s career began…

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