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Browsing by author: Angela

Yves Saint Laurent Yvresse (Champagne) ~ perfume review

Posted by Angela on 16 March 2007 27 Comments

Yves Saint Laurent Yvresse fragrance

1n 1993, when Yves Saint Laurent Yvresse was launched, it was named Champagne. It wasn’t long before the Champagne lobby noticed and strong-armed YSL into renaming its new perfume. Whether Yvresse smells to you like Champagne or a bellini or a tropical fruit-scented viognier, you probably agree that its new name — a play on “ivresse”, the French word for intoxication — is a perfect fit.

Sophia Grojsman created Yvresse, and she embedded in it the warm, womanly peach-rose combination that she introduced in Lancôme Trésor and then tucked into YSL Paris and Lagerfeld Sun Moon Stars, among others. Yvresse is a fruity chypre with topnotes of nectarine, anise, mint, violet, and a grain of cumin; a middle of otto rose, blue rose, and lychee; and a base of oakmoss, patchouli, vetiver, and vanilla…

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Curating a Perfume Collection

Posted by Angela on 5 March 2007 28 Comments

Balenciaga Rumba perfumeIn my email exchanges with Amy Yang from Luilei for the Valentine’s Day perfume suggestions, she wrote something that I’ve been thinking about ever since: “I love fragrance. And I don’t consider myself a junkie as a junkie does not exercise restraint or discretion.” Then she used the word “curate” to describe how she selects her fragrances. I wondered, what does it mean to curate a perfume collection?

To answer this question, I called a friend who is a curator in a nationally respected art museum. (She is shy about having her name on the internet.) She said that the elements of curating are stewardship, research, intrinsic and relational value, theme, and schmoozing. Let’s take them on one by one and see how they apply to perfume:

Stewardship: To be a curator, you must be a good steward of your works of art. For perfume lovers, that means we need to store our perfume out of light, with a stable temperature, and keep air out of the bottle to the extent we can. Perfume can last decades if it’s well cared for, although some perfumes seem to age better than others…

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Perfume Mysteries

Posted by Angela on 26 February 2007 66 Comments

Catherine Deneuve for Chanel no. 5 perfumeOver the past few years I’ve stumbled over a few perfume questions or stories, and I’ve gathered them here for you to ponder, too. If you have any insight, I’d love to hear it.

Mystery #1: According to Michael Edwards’ Perfume Legends, the first version of Guy Laroche Fidji was created by Edmond Roudnitska, the legendary nose responsible for Rochas Femme, Frédéric Malle Le Parfum de Therese, and Christian Dior Diorissimo. L’Oréal, who manufactured the scent, decided at the last minute that Roudnitska’s formula “would have been perfect for a Dior couture perfume, but it was too aggressive for Fidji”, so they delayed production until another perfumer retooled Fidji…

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Caron Tabac Blond perfume review

Posted by Angela on 15 February 2007 36 Comments

Caron Tabac Blond, vintage ad

A lot has been made of Luca Turin’s statement, as quoted by Chandler Burr in The Emperor of Scent, that Caron Tabac Blond is “dykey and angular and dark and totally unpresentable”, and that a man who takes a woman wearing Tabac Blond to meet his mother is set for trouble. For sure, if the mother is looking for a gently floral daughter-in-law with a cashmere sweater set and a subscription to Good Housekeeping, she will be disappointed. But Turin’s larger discussion is often overlooked, that Tabac Blond embodies the wit and intelligence of chic. Turin ends his rant about the sorry state of chic these days by saying that a savvy mother will admire the style of her son’s Tabac Blond-wearing lover…

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Perfumes For Valentine’s Day Romance, Part 2: A Little Subtlety, Please

Posted by Angela on 6 February 2007 11 Comments

Doris Day in Pillow TalkYesterday's post discussed scents to wear for a romantic night out on Valentine's Day. But what might you wear if your relationship is still on tender ground, or if you’re not in a relationship at all? Once again, Amy Yang of Luilei and Lisa Slavik of Beautycafé have a few recommendations.

Lisa chooses Laila of Norway as a good fragrance to wear when you want to have a romantic presence but not go overboard…

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