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Browsing by author: Angela

Auguste Esprit de Chine, Esprit de Cuir & Esprit de Chypre ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 13 May 2008 3 Comments

Auguste Esprit de Chine perfumeCatherine Fructus started Auguste in 1994 to bring back some of the old beverages, medical remedies, and beauty concoctions of her native Provence. Her website calls Auguste a “bienêtrerie”, or, as my lame French would translate it, a made-up word for a “place you go for things relating to well being”. At Auguste, well being includes private label pastis, soap, folk aphrodisiacs, manicure kits, and cherries in eau de vie. It also includes three parfums: Esprit de Chine, Esprit de Cuir, and Esprit de Chypre.

According to Luckyscent, the perfumes were copied from formulae found in handwritten perfume recipe books that Grasse's perfumers wrote between 1905 and 1920. Auguste used old methods to make the perfumes, too, so that they would be more faithful to the original scents. Although each scent is distinct — a floral oriental, a leather, and a floral chypre — they share a feeling of music played on old instruments and heard at the end of a hall…

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Lancome Cuir de Lancome ~ perfume review

Posted by Angela on 5 May 2008 68 Comments

Cuir de Lancome fragrance

Miss Marple, where were you when I needed you? Late last summer I stalked department stores in search of Cuir de Lancôme, a then-recent addition to Lancôme’s La Collection range of vintage reissues. The word on the street was that it was supposed to be released in the United States sometime in early fall 2007. A sales associate at Saks Fifth Avenue rifled through some Lancôme sales packages and found something claiming that Cuir should have been released in spring 2007. Another sales associate, this one at Nordstrom, looked at me like he believed I was making it all up and proffered a bottle of Lancôme Sikkim with a busted atomizer. A lukewarm review over at Perfume Smellin’ Things did little to chill my ardor, and news that Lancôme eventually decided not to release Cuir in the United States only made me crazier for it. I had to have a bottle of Cuir de Lancôme…

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When First Class Perfume is Second Best

Posted by Angela on 28 April 2008 150 Comments

Kraft Mac N CheeseA few nights ago I had a few friends over for dinner and we ate duck breast rubbed with fresh mint, ground coriander seeds, and pepper, with an olive and vermouth pan sauce. One of my friends brought field greens, complete with strands of chickweed and wild violets. We drank single-vineyard Oregon pinot noir and were on top of the world. On the other hand, tonight it's raining and work was a drag. I'm home alone and craving a box of macaroni and cheese. For me, this dichotomy applies to perfume, too. Sometimes I want something that is well crafted. Other times I want something, well, Kraft-ed.

When I'm tired and crabby and yearning for comfort, I reach for the dulce de leche ice cream equivalent of perfume. I don't want a complex perfume that unfurls over time with layers of surprising beauty. No, I want something that will make me slightly nauseated if I overdo it…

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Jean Patou L’Heure Attendue and Lucien Lelong Orgueil ~ perfume reviews

Posted by Angela on 21 April 2008 32 Comments

Lucien Lelong Orgueil fragrance

On the top of the stack of books I’m reading now is Irène Némirovsky’s Suite Française, a novel that takes place in France just as the Germans seize Paris in June, 1940. I’m only halfway through the novel now, but I’m engrossed in its contrast of the war’s crazy beauty and horror, certainty and improvisation, and, of course, good and evil. Living my insular life as an American so many years later, it’s hard to imagine what World War II must have been like for the average Parisian. Jean Patou L’Heure Attendue and Lucien Lelong Orgueil, both released in 1946 to commemorate the end of the war, bring an inkling of the feeling of relief and joy that the war’s end brought…

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Ungaro Diva and Paloma Picasso Mon Parfum ~ two 1980s rose chypres

Posted by Angela on 10 April 2008 44 Comments

Ungaro Diva perfume advertPaloma Picasso Mon Parfum advert

On weekends I work at a vintage clothing shop. I love the Jean Harlow dressing gowns and Grace Kelly day dresses we stock, but I’ve noticed a steadily growing clientele for Pat Benatar blazers and even Debby Boone gauchos. Yes, for some of us the ’80s are back. You wouldn’t catch me dead in an ultrasuede shirt or leggings, but I have to admit that I adore a whopping 1980s rose chypre. At the top of my list are Ungaro Diva and Paloma Picasso Mon Parfum…

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