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Browsing by author: Angela

If you had to choose one perfume house…

Posted by Angela on 16 February 2009 3 Comments

While riding to work or scrubbing out the bathtub or working in the yard, sometimes I play a game to pass the time. It goes like this: if you could only wear perfume from one house for the rest of your life, which one would it be? Sometimes I include discontinued and vintage fragrances, and sometimes I tell myself I have to stick with whatever the house has on the market now or might introduce later. Sometimes I change the game so I have to pick just one perfumer.

Besides being a fun way to pass the time, thinking about what perfume house's work you'd wear if you could choose only one house is a way to think about who you are, too. Someone resolutely elegant would do well with Chanel or Divine, for instance, while someone who loves a good joke might choose Etat Libre d'Orange. Someone with easy access to the mall and no huge need for the avant garde could do a lot worse than Estée Lauder. Someone infatuated with aoud would have to choose Montale.

For me, Guerlain and Caron come to mind right away. Each house has a fat enough list of product that I'd have plenty to choose from, and each house has perfume with history and a retro feel that I like…

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Schiaparelli Shocking new & vintage ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 9 February 2009 39 Comments

Schiaparelli Shocking vintage advert 1Schiaparelli Shocking vintage advert 2

I thought I was doing pretty well at the thrift store this weekend. I’d already scored a sapphire blue quilted bathrobe from the 1950s with a full skirt and black passementerie and I’d snagged a 1960s soap dish made of laminate with tiny shells suspended in it, but my big find was around the corner: a bottle of Schiaparelli Shocking “Eau de Parfum Mist” for two bucks. “Shocking” was scrawled across its hot pink label in the same kind of font that came out of the back of Samantha’s broom in the opening credits of Bewitched. Even better, it still smelled all right…

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The Beauty of the Soliflore

Posted by Angela on 2 February 2009 154 Comments

Lilies of the valley

At first glance, soliflores — fragrances replicating the scent of a single flower — might not seem worth much attention. Why spend money on something you can smell for real in the garden when there are so many interesting compositions out there? Where's the art in that?

Along the same lines, you might ask why photography or figurative painting are arts. After all, a photograph is just a two-dimensional picture of something real, even if it's staged. Every day we probably see people who are walking Diane Arbus photographs, and a hike in a national park yields scores of Ansel Adams images. Give me a wig and I'll show you Cindy Sherman. You've seen one circus freak or sunset and you've seen them all, right?

I used to think so. Not any more. First of all, photography requires craft and vision. A photographer has to choose an image that is meaningful, whether it's beautiful, thought-provoking, or just plain strange. The photographer also has to know how to capture that image, too — how to exaggerate or clarify or wipe away anything that takes away from the photographer's vision. The perfumer faces even more complex questions of craft when creating a soliflore. I'm no expert, but I do know that a perfumer can't just put roses in a cuisinart, add a shot of rubbing alcohol, and end up with Yves Saint Laurent Paris…

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Perfumes for a Dame

Posted by Angela on 26 January 2009 56 Comments

The building was pink stucco, big and new and ugly. It had a side entrance with “Romp Room” lettered above it in red neon…[I heard] The high titter of drunk and flattered women, the animal sounds of drunk and eager men. Babel with a wild jazz obbligato.

A big henna redhead in a shotsilk blouse was making drinks at a service bar near the door. Her torso jiggled in the blouse like a giant soft-boiled egg with the shell removed.*

The scent wafting off this dame was unmistakable: Coty Emeraude…

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Perfume and the Lavish Hand

Posted by Angela on 19 January 2009 104 Comments

Nicole Kidman for Chanel No. 5

We were in a rambling antiques mall in Billings, Montana, and all around us were the remains of other people's lives — the Spode soup bowls, ratty mink stoles, worn cowboy boots, and stacks of old issues of Look magazine that people thought were worth keeping until they died or were too lazy to throw out. Once I was able to rip my attention away from a 1940s plaster lamp of a Southern belle with a light bulb under her skirt, I saw a battered box with the unmistakable Chanel logo on a nearby shelf. Inside was a two-thirds-full bottle of Chanel No. 5 Eau de Cologne that looked like it was at least fifty years old.

I forgot about the No. 5 cologne until last night when I was looking for something to wear while I watched The Earrings of Madame De…, a decidedly 1950s movie about pawned jewelry and forbidden love in the 19th century. The No. 5 seemed perfect. It is modern and retro at the same time, and something about its old vermouth and jasmine scent seemed to match the spirit of Danielle Darrieux as the movie's lovelorn comtesse.

I got to wondering about who had first owned the bottle of No. 5…

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