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Browsing by author: Angela

Bois 1920 Come La Luna ~ Fragrance Review

Posted by Angela on 24 March 2009 58 Comments

Bois 1920 Come La Luna

Of the two new Bois 1920 Eaux de Toilette, Vento di Fiori and Come La Luna, I was sure that Vento di Fiori, a green chypre, would be my favorite. After all, the combination of citrus, galbanum, flowers, oakmoss, and patchouli is irresistible, especially in spring. Come La Luna, on the other hand sounded kind of ordinary. I discovered that while Vento di Fiori is nice, I’ve fallen for Come La Luna.

The Bois 1920 website describes Come La Luna as “citrus-spicy-amber” and lists its notes as Sicily mandarin, Sicily sweet orange, rose wood, pink pepper, coriander, Indonesian patchouli, amber, and incense. The combination sounds good but not particularly remarkable. On skin, however, Come La Luna shows itself as an aristocratic wood scent…

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Givenchy L’Interdit vintage, 2002 and 2007 versions ~ perfume review

Posted by Angela on 16 March 2009 51 Comments

Givenchy L'Interdit, Les Mythiques collectionAudrey Hepburn for Givenchy L'Interdit

The story goes that in 1957 the clothing designer Hubert de Givenchy commissioned perfumer Francis Fabron to create a fragrance especially for his favorite client, Audrey Hepburn. Fabron had already earned his perfumer's chops as the nose behind Nina Ricci L'Air du Temps and the original Robert Piguet Baghari. Reportedly, Hepburn was so taken with the scent that when Givenchy mentioned marketing it she said, “But I forbid you!” So the fragrance earned its name — L'Interdit means “forbidden” in French.

Vintage Givenchy L'Interdit is a warm, feminine aldehydic floral with a hint of peach and strawberry, and a buttery sandalwood drydown spiked with incense. Like many aldehydic florals, it smells first and foremost like perfume. As the aldehydes fade, L'Interdit settles into a chiffon veil of scent that is subtle and beautifully blended. Its floral heart is creamy with ylang ylang, iris, and rose, but a pinch of spice keeps it from being flabby. As the scent fades it sweetens slightly and its softness feels like powder more than smells like it…

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Paris and perfume

Posted by Angela on 9 March 2009 86 Comments

A search on Basenotes for fragrances with “Paris” in the title turns up 37 names. Sure, a few are Paris Hilton scents, but the rest are plays on the city itself: Yves Saint Laurent Paris, of course; but also Bourjois Evening in Paris and Springtime in Paris; Holzman & Stephanie La Parisienne, its male counterpart, Molinard Le Parisian, and the baby-faced Téo Cabanel Demoiselle de Paris; a couple of discontinued Guerlains, Paris-Gem and Chypre de Paris; the nearly forgotten, double-hitter Caron London Paris; and more.

Why is the idea of Paris so attractive to perfume companies? (Or to musicians, novelists, and filmmakers, for that matter?) Paris has more romance than, say, Sacramento, but the reality is that it's a big city with bad traffic, dirty air, poverty, racism, a high cost of living, and dog poop on the sidewalks. It's a myth that every corner café serves up homemade cassoulet and house wine from the owner's cousin's vineyard in Burgundy. You're more likely to end up with a pre-frozen pizza or an industrially fabricated croque monsieur. And not every Parisian woman is chic — or thin. I'm not saying that Paris should be a theme park with men in berets, but the amount of loud pink and green wallpaper in many a downscale Parisian hotel is alarming.

I say this, and yet I can't stay away…

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Dianne Brill Eau de Parfum ~ perfume review

Posted by Angela on 2 March 2009 47 Comments

Dianne Brill Eau de Parfum

When I first dabbed Dianne Brill Eau de Parfum on my skin, I thought, this really reminds me of something. I tore to my perfume cabinet and looked at the bottles. What could it be? Something insistently spicy and a little astringent. Something with tobacco, maybe, and I definitely smelled coriander. I sniffed Serge Lutens Fumerie Turque and Chergui and dismissed them. L’Artisan Parfumeur Tea for Two? No. Then I picked up a decant and lit on the answer: Kenzo Jungle L’Eléphant. Dianne Brill is nearly a dead ringer for L’Eléphant.

According to Chandler Burr’s review in the New York Times, Dianne Brill worked closely with Valérie Garnuch in developing the Dianne Brill fragrance. She wanted the fragrance to reflect the smell of an old piece of leather, a discontinued Kiehl’s body oil, wood from a construction site, sticky figs, a cigar box, and nutmeg (which Brill said reminded her of the smell of sweaty bodies at a disco in Mustique). Dianne Brill Eau de Parfum debuted in September 2008…

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Bourjois Evening in Paris / Soir de Paris ~ vintage and new

Posted by Angela on 23 February 2009 52 Comments

Bourjois Soir de Paris perfume

Sometime in the late-1920s, Bourjois executives sat in an office building in Manhattan and plotted how to conquer the American market. Bourjois was mostly known for its lipsticks and powders, but it had had some success in France with Mon Parfum in 1923. Bourjois was owned then, as it is now, by the Wertheimer family, which also owned Chanel.

In my mind’s eye, it was a warm day, and the rumble of traffic competed with fans whirring in the corner of the office. The visiting French executives bemoaned the bottle of chilled white wine they would have had at lunch had it not been Prohibition. “Coty has a stranglehold on lipstick in this country. Let’s try a fragrance,” one of them said. “We can get Chanel’s perfumer to do something for us, but nothing as upscale as No. 5. We want something friendlier, something that will appeal to the businessman’s wife in Iowa, or even to Margaret.”

Margaret was the stenographer…

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