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Browsing by author: Angela

Parfum d’Empire Eau Suave ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 25 May 2009 87 Comments

Chateau Malmaison

When my friend Maryann opened the door to greet me, she said, “You smell nice! At least it must be you, since nothing out front is in bloom yet.” It was late April and not even lilacs or lilies of the valley bloomed, let alone roses. But standing in the doorway I knew Maryann recognized the faint fragrance of an early summer garden in the morning, because I wore Parfum d’Empire Eau Suave Eau de Parfum.

In 2003, Marc Antoine Corticciato, the perfumer behind Parfum d’Empire, created Eau Suave in homage to Josephine’s Chateau de Malmaison, famed for its gardens including 250 varieties of rose. In an article on Malmaison, Princess Michael of Kent wrote that roses were a natural for Josephine:

Josephine was christened Marie-Joséphe Rose Tascher de la Pagerie and she would be known as “Rose” from her birth until the day when the young General Bonaparte (who made a habit of changing women’s names) began a letter with: “Sweet and incomparable Josephine. I awake full of you and of the memory of our intoxicating night…” From that moment she would enter history as Josephine.

Pretty cheeky of Napoleon to change her name, but I guess you don’t get to rule most of Europe without being at least a little domineering…

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In Fragrance, Never Say Never

Posted by Angela on 18 May 2009 222 Comments

VioletVioletViolet

Actress Demi Moore was at the Frédéric Malle counter at Barney’s. According to a sales associate (a great story teller and wearer of Bois d’Orage), he started to introduce Demi to the line by grabbing the bottle of Musc Ravageur. “Oh no,” Demi said. “I don’t like musk.” The sales associate then led Demi through the Malle range, from the lush Carnal Flower to the spicy-rose Noir Epices to the Lolita-esque Lys Méditerranée, but Demi wasn’t completely convinced that any of them were right for her. In desperation he sprayed Musc Ravageur for her to smell. “What’s this?” she asked. “You saved the best for last!”

Another story: A few weeks ago I was lucky enough to attend a presentation where perfumer Mandy Aftel discussed, among other things, how she makes a custom fragrance. She explained that she doesn’t ask a client what perfumes she likes, and she doesn’t have her fill out a questionnaire. Instead, she sits with the client at her perfume organ and lets her smell different raw materials. She said that time after time she finds that people have a firm idea about what they like — or especially what they don’t like — but when a slip of paper dunked in the essence is tucked blind under their noses, they change their minds…

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Keiko Mecheri Passiflora ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 11 May 2009 97 Comments

Keiko Mecheri Passiflora perfume

At first, it didn’t look like my quick pass through a neighborhood thrift store would yield much. I did find a 1950s Red Wing dinner plate with a lotus on it that matched plates I had at home, and I considered buying a bundle of satin-padded hangers in peach, pale yellow, and coral. But just as I was ready to leave, I saw a familiar bottle on a shelf next to a stack of bruised guest soaps. It was a full bottle of Keiko Mecheri Passiflora Eau de Parfum. I’d just seen bottles at Takashimaya in New York for $115. This one was $10. How the bottle made its way to Portland and ultimately to the thrift shop, I’ll never know. A gift from a spurned lover? A sudden allergy to scent? Who cares? It’s mine now…

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Avon Bond Girl 007 ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 4 May 2009 103 Comments

Avon Bond Girl

There’s a good chance that some of your first memories of perfume were of Avon. Maybe it was the fragrances themselves: Cotillion, Sweet Honesty, Timeless, or Bird of Paradise were a few. Or, more likely, it was the bottles shaped like everything from pianos to Model T cars to colonial dames. If you haven’t looked at an Avon catalog lately, you’re in for a surprise. First, no more kitschy bottles. Your chance to own Timeless bottled in a giant penny is gone. Next, although Sweet Honesty survived, most of the old perfumes have been replaced with newer, sexier products, like Imari, Christian Lacroix Rouge, and, yes, Bond Girl 007.

Avon began its life in 1886 in upstate New York as The California Perfume Company. David McConnell, who started the company, stumbled on the idea of selling perfume when he found that the free rose oil samples he handed out so that ladies would listen to his pitch to buy books were more popular than the books themselves. With the help of a local pharmacist he created the company’s first collection of fragrances, called Little Dot Perfumes. In 1939, The California Perfume Company changed its name to Avon. Avon still sells its products door-to-door, but now you can also buy them online or at special boutiques in malls.

Avon launched Bond Girl 007 in fall 2008 to coincide with the release of the new Bond film, Quantum of Solace…

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At the 2009 FiFi Finalists Awards

Posted by Angela on 27 April 2009 42 Comments

Fifi Awards Logo 2009Thanks to a friend with ample airline miles and a niece with an apartment in New York City, I went to the FiFi Finalists award breakfast on Friday. So, instead of the usual Monday perfume review, I’ll give you an inside peek at all the important aspects of the breakfast: what it is about, who was there, and what was in the goody bag.

The Fragrance Foundation bills the FiFis as the fragrance industry’s Oscars. At the finalists breakfast, the top five entries for each of the awards categories are announced along with the winners of the awards for editorial excellence and for technological breakthrough. Although both the Oscars and the FiFis incorporate celebrities and prizes for excellence, the FiFis are less about art and more about sales. After all, the Oscars don’t offer prizes for Best Packaging and Best National Media Campaign. As an executive for Cosmpolitan magazine said in her opening remarks at the breakfast, “The creative marketing talent in this room can create the sweetest smell of all: the smell of success.”

That said, for the perfume industry to survive, it needs to be strong. Plus, the FiFis do include prizes for best fragrances in several categories and for editorial excellence. I submitted work to be considered for an award, and that’s how I ended up receiving an invitation to attend the breakfast…

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