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Browsing by author: Angela

Perfume That Becomes You

Posted by Angela on 4 January 2010 281 Comments

L'Artisan Parfumeur Havana Vanille fragrance

One afternoon last week, I sat in a dentist chair waiting for part two of a root canal. I was nervously flipping through an old People magazine when I found a paragraph about the new Frédéric Malle Editions de Parfums boutique in New York. In the article, Malle recommended a person choosing a perfume look for one that mingles with the person’s skin. He said the fragrance should become a part of him or her.

I know just what Malle means. Sometimes, when a perfume marries well with the person who wears it, the scent becomes part of the person. It isn’t something that stands out on its own. Instead, it’s a few more brushstrokes in the person’s complete portrait. For instance, one of my friends wears Annick Goutal Eau d’Hadrien well. When I’m with her, I don’t notice her fragrance right away, instead, I take in all of her. At some point, it occurs to me she smells good, in a way that seems perfectly natural…

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Grossmith Phul-Nana, Shel-el-Nessim, and Hasu-no-Hana ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 28 December 2009 51 Comments

Grossmith Phul-Nana, Shel-el-Nessim, and Hasu-no-Hana

Have you ever seen the episode of I Love Lucy where Lucy gets a job in a candy factory? The candy rolls off the assembly line so fast she can’t package it. She ends up covered in chocolate and out of a job. These days, trying to stay on top of perfume launches is like working at Lucy’s candy factory. As is also true at the factory, so many of the fragrances are the same. This candy tester is happy to report the new Grossmith line stands apart. They’re different not so much because they’re wildly compelling, but because they smell of a different time.

Grossmith, an English perfume house, first opened its doors in 1835 and closed sometime in the early 20th century. The great grandson of its founder revived the house this year with the help of Roja Dove from Harrod’s Roja Dove Haute Parfumerie. Grossmith has released three of its original fragrances. Despite the perfume house’s name, which sounds like it could front canned peas, each fragrance’s name is exotic: Phul-Nana, Shel-el-Nessim, and Hasu-no-Hana…

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Perfume and Memory

Posted by Angela on 21 December 2009 226 Comments

calvin klein euphoria

This time of year, perfume lovers talk a lot about what fragrances they like to wear for the holidays. Other times of the year, people ponder fragrances for weddings, major birthdays, new jobs, or other milestones. This post won’t suggest perfumes for any of these occasions. Instead, it offers a warning. If you wear a beautiful fragrance on a beautiful day, you’ll have beautiful memories. But if you wear a beautiful fragrance and things go sour — well, you may as well pour that bottle of Amouage Lyric that was supposed to brighten your spring down the toilet. It will only bring you heartache.

Scent and memory are tightly entwined. Maybe you wouldn’t otherwise give it a second sniff, but you might own a bottle of Estée Lauder Youth Dew because you associate it with your grandmother, the one who called you “pumpkin” and hugged you with a grip that would earn her favorable odds in big time wrestling. You might have entertained the possibility of wearing Calvin Klein Euphoria if it didn’t remind you so much of the pushy office manager in your last job who made a note of pointing out every time you returned from lunch two minutes late. Maybe you had to give away your bottle of Thierry Mugler Angel because your ex-husband loved it on you — until he left you for some Paris Hilton Siren-wearing homewrecker…

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Chanel Coco Mademoiselle ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 14 December 2009 219 Comments

Kate Moss for Chanel Coco Mademoiselle perfume

In Perfumes: the A-Z Guide, Luca Turin writes that Chanel Coco Mademoiselle was a quickly assembled flanker, and its success surprised Chanel. However, in Women’s Wear Daily1 before Coco Mademoiselle launched, Chanel’s “Vice President of fragrance and internet marketing”2 said Coco Mademoiselle could double Coco’s business. In the same article, “industry insiders” guessed Coco Mademoiselle might earn as much as $15 million its first year.

Maybe Chanel’s statement about doubling Coco’s earnings was merely grandstanding for the press, but Women’s Wear Daily later reported Coco Mademoiselle raked in $21 million that first year.3 It also broke records by winning the FiFi for Prestige Fragrance in all the FiFi countries — the United States, France, Germany, Spain, Italy, and Great Britain — as well as being awarded the European Star of the Year. Coco Mademoiselle has continued to hold its ground. The NPD Group, a market research firm, listed it as the third best selling fragrance in the United States in 2008…

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Chanel Coco ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 7 December 2009 250 Comments

Chanel Coco perfume advert 1

Most of us have fragrance milestones: the first perfume we bought with our own money, our first “serious” perfume, and maybe our first signature scent, back before perfume mania sank the whole signature scent possibility. My first signature scent was Chanel Coco. Now, a couple of decades and hundreds of perfumes separate me from my Coco days. When I stopped by Nordstrom last week to ask for a sample of the Eau de Parfum, I didn’t hold out much hope I’d still like it. After all, I’ve loved and left my share of 1980s blockbusters.

Silly me. It turns out all those sample vials of scent from drugstores to niche perfumeries I devoured over the years only led me to appreciate Coco’s artistry more. Coco is warm, elegant, beautifully blended, and easy. No, it won’t shock or challenge. There’s nothing funky or bizarre or tough about it. But just as a dinner of perfectly roasted chicken, potatoes, sautéed chard, and glass of Pinot Noir by the fire won’t rock the world, it satisfies far more often than the sous vide-cooked special from the latest darling chef.

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