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Browsing by author: Alyssa

The Scent of Smoke ~ out of the bottle

Posted by Alyssa on 18 October 2011 38 Comments

fire in Bastrop, TX

Back in the first week of September, a large part of the very large state of Texas was on fire. There was so much fire that the Texas Department of Transportation had a live fire map on their website. It showed many small animated flames scattered around the state, and one really enormous campfire-sized flame in Bastrop County, about 35 miles away from my home in Austin.

Local news compared the size of the Bastrop fire to the state of Connecticut. Its smoke plume was visible from space. Satellite photographs showed a dark point that widened as it traveled south until it trailed away in a ragged, fanned out fringe into the Gulf of Mexico. In Austin, we could see great black clouds of smoke on the horizon and, later, a gray-white sky. And of course, we could smell it.

Because scent is invisible to the naked eye, we tend to think of it as intangible. Once, I even saw an announcement for an academic forum on smell and architecture that referred to odor as “abstract.” But though we might not be able to hold an aroma in our hands, every time we smell something we’ve come in direct, intimate contact with tiny bits of it…

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Stopping to Smell the Cheese ~ out of the bottle

Posted by Alyssa on 20 September 2011 39 Comments

cheese board

After sniffing my way through a tea shop, a rose emporium, a spice shop and a few glasses of wine, naturally I thought it was time to smell some cheese. I know, I know — I can hear you giggling. But let’s get the jokes about sweaty socks and “cutting the cheese” out of the way right up front, because when it comes to aroma, cheese has much more to offer than stink.

“Every cheese — and there are thousands — has a different smell,” says John Antonelli, the owner (with his wife Kendall) of Antonelli’s Cheese Shop, who was kind enough to answer my questions about how scent is important to his work as a cheesemonger. “And it’s not different as in a variation within the same spectrum, it’s different as in night and day. I mean, there are cheeses that smell like roses, there are cheeses that smell like steak, there are cheeses that smell like smoke.”

In fact, when it comes to aroma, cheese is so complex that when Antonelli trains his staff to use their noses, the first thing he tells them is to go home and “start smelling everything as often as they can.” What they need, he says, is to fill their heads with a reference library of aromas from the world around them.

The same kind of cheese can smell markedly different from maker to maker or season to season…

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The Perfection of an Ingredient: a Perfumer in the Food World ~ out of the bottle

Posted by Alyssa on 1 September 2011 21 Comments

Aroma by Aftel & Patterson

When I explain who Mandy Aftel is to people outside the perfume world I often call her the Alice Waters of natural perfume. Both women are pioneers — influential innovators in their respective fields. Just as Waters combined her passion for local, organically grown food with fine cuisine, Aftel combined her love of botanical essences with a sophisticated understanding of perfumery. And they’re neighbors: Aftel lives and works a block from Waters’ famous restaurant Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California.

But it wasn’t until my recent conversation with Aftel about her food work that I realized just how deeply involved she was in the culinary world. She has lectured vintners at Coppola Winery and sommeliers at Thomas Keller’s renowned restaurant, The French Laundry. She has taught alongside White House pastry chef Billy Yosses, and worked with a long list of celebrity chefs including Dan Barber, Wylie Dufresne and David Chang. Food scientist Harold McGee has become a friend. McGee’s newest book is on flavor, and he stopped by Aftel’s studio not long ago to sniff a few things and talk about the importance of aroma in food.

“It’s a deep question,” she said, when I asked her about the connections between her perfumery and her food work. “I do go back and forth from food to perfume and perfume to food, but I see them as very, very similar in my mind and I always did.”

“I was eating and cooking before I was a perfumer,” she continued…

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Clean Air and Excess: The Perfect Perfume Boutique ~ out of the bottle

Posted by Alyssa on 19 July 2011 68 Comments

If you could design the perfect perfume boutique, what would it look like? Would you want a private smelling booth? A fainting couch? How about a bar so you could have a drink or an espresso while you wait for the dry down? Would it be all white minimalism like LA’s The Scent Bar? A black-and-gold wrapped present of a room like Ormonde Jayne’s London store? A crowded jewel box with red walls and a chandelier, like New York’s Aedes de Venustas? Or something else altogether?

Last fall, Professor Lois Weinthal invited me to lecture on perfume to her interior design seminar at the University of Texas School of Architecture. The students would spend the semester designing an ideal perfume boutique with me as their “client.” But there was a twist: their other client would be Professor Jeffrey Siegel, an engineer who studies indoor air pollution. The students would have to satisfy both of us.

On my first class visit I introduced the students to the basics of perfume…

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A Perfumista and a Wine Blogger Walk into a Bar ~ out of the bottle

Posted by Alyssa on 28 June 2011 51 Comments

wine rack

By the time the lovely Wine Scamp and I met for dinner at a local wine bar, I’d been pondering the overlap between perfume and wine for some time. When I talk to the uninitiated about my perfume world, wine nearly always comes up. It’s that other slightly mystifying luxury having to do with France and bottles whose crazy aficionados are always going on about “notes.” Wine reviews are also one of the few places one can read an analysis of smells in the mainstream press. And unlike food writers, who discuss the smells of ingredients (rosemary, star anise) or techniques (caramelized onions) wine writers refer to things that can’t possibly be in the glass: leather, hay, violets, smoke. Smells that sound more like something you’d find in a perfume (and I’d like that one, thank you).

“You should be a natural,” the Scamp had said, when I told her I wanted to learn more about wine. An attentive nose, it turns out, is essential to enjoying wine, not only because its complex bouquet is part of its beauty but because its flavor is so entwined with its scent. We smell wine when we sniff it in the glass, and then we smell it again when we swallow it and the volatile fragrant molecules rush up from the alcohol warmed on our palate into our retro-nasal passages. A wine that has a long lovely “finish” — a flavor that goes on and on in the mouth after you’ve swallowed — seems to offer a gastronomical version of a perfume’s dry down.1

Reading about this I wondered, not for the first time, why perfume and wine people don’t hang out more often…

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