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Browsing by author: Cheryl

Reading the Scent Trail: Margaret Atwood

Posted by Cheryl on 24 September 2010 40 Comments

Quick reminder: join me for an online book club in October. We’ll be talking about Remembering Smell by Bonnie Blodgett.

Between my usual work commute, and an unusual amount of travel, I’m finding it difficult to curl up with a book these days. But I haven’t cut back on my reading. All of this road and plane time has led me back to one of my favorite indulgences — audio books, and to one of my favorite authors — Margaret Atwood.

I heard Atwood speak last April at a nearby university. She was promoting her newest book, The Year of the Flood (2009), a novel about environmental catastrophe, mass extinction, genetic engineering, world hunger, exploitation, the end of literacy, and the future of humanity. You will understand that although I was eager, I refrained during the Q&A from voicing my one burning query: “What perfume do you wear?”

This question isn’t quite as gratuitous as it sounds. As Atwood spoke, my mind filled with half-memories of her novels, many of which I’d read over a decade ago. While the details had blurred over time, I was still haunted by the olfactory ghosts of each and every one of them. There is a passage in Bodily Harm (1998) that I just can’t shake — only a sentence I think — where changes in a Lora’s bodily odors lead to a disturbing revelation. Early in Alias Grace (1997), the protagonist describes the word “murderess” as having the musky, oppressive smell of dead flowers in a vase. Later, Simon Jordon is distracted by Grace’s scent of skin, smoke, laundry soap, mushrooms, ferns, crushed fruit, and unwashed scalp. She in turn has detected his odor of lavender, leather and ears…

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NST book club in October: Remembering Smell by Bonnie Blodgett

Posted by Cheryl on 3 September 2010 23 Comments

Remembering Smell book coverauthor Bonnie Blodgett

I recently heard an interview with Bonnie Blodgett (shown above right), who wrote a memoir about the experience of losing and rediscovering the sense of smell. I am intrigued, and have placed this book at the top of my reading list.

If you, too, have read or are planning to read Remembering Smell, let’s chat about it. How about an October book club…

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Glamour: Women, History, Feminism by Carol Dyhouse ~ perfume books

Posted by Cheryl on 27 August 2010 31 Comments

Glamour: Women, History, Feminism by Carol Dyhouse“What is fashionable is not always glamorous, and glamour has not always been fashionable” says Carol Dyhouse (p.3), in her entertaining and thought-provoking Glamour: Women, History, Feminism. Glamour, and a taste for it, have morphed in the wake of social and cultural trends, economic swings, and increasing financial independence for women. Though frequently dismissed as yet another manifestation of women’s conformity and subjugation to men, glamour can be, according to Dyhouse, a form of assertive femininity, an expression of power, defiance, transgression and aspiration.

Across this richly illustrated, seven-chapter book, images and embodiments of glamour unfold chronologically from the late nineteenth century to the present. Along with the usual suspects (feathers and furs, “Cleopatra” eyes, bias-cut gowns, red lipstick), Dyhouse presents the less obvious glamour of second-wave feminism (Germaine Greer, Erica Jong, Gloria Steinem) and high-end grunge. Analyzing the content of popular fiction, cinema, women’s magazines and several published surveys, Dyhouse tells the story of how English women have embraced — or eschewed — glamour in their daily lives. With the widespread allure of Hollywood films in the 1930s (imagine the screen as a canvas of black and white, where texture and light, glittering fabrics and jewels take precedence over color), and the trans-Atlantic “youthquake” of the 60s, American cultural influences often play a key part in this scenario. As the decades pass, from the 70s’ “natural look” to the showy, conspicuous consumption of the 1980s, glamour gradually loses its edge.

With evolving fashion came new fragrances…

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The Great Stink of Paris and the Nineteenth-Century Struggle against Filth and Germs by David S Barnes ~ perfume books

Posted by Cheryl on 23 July 2010 34 Comments

Great Stink of ParisFill up your pomanders, take out your nosegays: it’s going to be a hot summer. “In the late summer of 1880 in Paris, death was in the air and it smelled like excrement.” So begins David S. Barnes’s history of the birth and dissemination of public health in France. The author shows that scientific discovery alone did not change the way a nation understood sanitation and the spread of disease. Eberth and Klebs’s isolation of the typhoid bacillus (1880), Roux’s diphtheria antitoxin (1884), Pasteur’s work on anthrax (1881) and development of the rabies vaccine (1885) were the talk of the town, but that wasn’t enough. It took a convergence of ideas (new scientific knowledge, persistent folk etiologies of contagion, a shift in political thinking toward Republican positivism, increased secularization, France’s mission to “civilize” the peasantry and colonies) to garner acceptance of germ theory and support for sanitation control.

Barnes focuses on the years between 1885 1880 and 1895, a period framed by two “Great Stinks” in Paris intrusive enough to spark public outcry, political debate, and relentless commentary in the daily papers. One front-page cartoon, lampooning the government’s slow response to the stench disaster, includes a transposition of the city motto fluctuat nec mergitur [it is tossed by the waves but it does not sink] to fluctuat et merditur [it is tossed by the waves and it — well, you get it]. Each smelly summer incited outrage, but by 1895 — though offended and disgusted — the public no longer feared that the fetid stench of Paris streets would cause death and disease. The author coins the term ”sanitary-bacteriological synthesis” (SBS) to explain how during the time between these two events, public health reformers brought pre-Pasteurian beliefs (that foul smelling emanations are bad for you) into harmony with new scientific knowledge about the dangers of microbes (which might be accompanied by foul smells).

Why did Paris stink in the nineteenth-century…

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Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster ~ perfume books

Posted by Cheryl on 25 June 2010 73 Comments

Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster book cover“Vuitton is the McDonald’s of the luxury industry,” says Dana Thomas in Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster, her extensively researched account of how supersized tactics transform luxe into de-luxe. Through brief biographies, juicy company histories, interviews with major players, and revealing statistics, Thomas traces the inelegant pursuit of the bottom line, a pursuit for which luxury traded its soul.

Part One covers the rise and fall of Old Europe’s luxury goods production, with a focus on Vuitton’s eventual “democratization” of formerly exclusive products. Part Two delves into marketing, outsourcing of labor, and the world of celebrity endorsement — from the indirect yet outrageously lucrative advertising generated when celebrities wear designer goods, to the phenomenon of celebrity perfumes. Though it deals little with perfume, Part Three was the most compelling section for me. It contains both chilling anecdotes about counterfeiting (it is not a victimless crime) and thoughtful observations on the future of luxury.

Although perfume references crop up throughout the book…

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