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Browsing by date: 2024

A faint note of horse piss

Posted by Robin on 11 May 2024 7 Comments

Discovering that entrepreneur Estée Lauder once rejected an entire scent because she detected a faint note of horse piss was not on my bingo card for 2024. But according to author Michael Edwards—who highlights this moment in his latest book, American Legends: The Evolution of American Fragrances—the colorful anecdote helps Lauder seem more relatable to those of us who know her exclusively as beauty royalty.

— Read more in American Legends Reveals the Backstories Behind Some of Your Favorite Scents at Harper's Bazaar. (And you can see a partial list of the fragrances covered by the book here.)

It’s an interesting question. American fragrances, when you smell them close up, they’re not always that pretty, but in the air they resonate. That’s the American spirit. Estée Lauder believed that women expect American fragrances to start the way they end. She had little patience with this idea of top notes, of fragrances changing over time: It has to be straight, she believed. It has to be direct.

— Michael Edwards on the difference between American and French perfumes. Read more in Spotlight: Michael Edwards, Debuts American Legends at Fragrance Foundation Accords.

“To the French, perfume is liquid art; to the Italians, liquid style; to the Americans, liquid money,” Edwards said.

— Read more in A Journey Through American Fragrance with Michael Edwards at FIT Newsroom.

Kenzo Flower La Recolte Parisienne ~ new perfume

Posted by Robin on 10 May 2024 2 Comments

Kenzo will launch Flower By Kenzo La Récolte Parisienne, a new fragrance for women. Flower La Récolte Parisienne is a flanker to 2023’s Flower Ikebana, which was a flanker to 2000’s Flower fragrance for women, and was inspired by an urban garden of Franco-Japanese horticulturist Masami Charlotte Lavault, the founder of Plein Air Paris…

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The daily lemming

Posted by Robin on 10 May 2024 4 Comments

If I could find this in the US, I'd buy it for myself for Mother's Day right now: the Nesti Dante Dolce far Niente Trio. "Enjoy this stunning tribute to natural beauty and the Italian way of life. The Dolce far Niente trio of Florentine soaps is made using the traditional Italian saponification process to obtain a softer, richer, highly natural bar soap. The decorated set contains three magnificent 150g perfumed soaps... Tuberose, Narcissus and Pink Jasmine. Each delicate soap is wrapped in fine textured paper. Made with love and care in Italy." $45 (AUD, I assume?) at Saison in Australia.

Friday scent of the day 5/10

Posted by Robin on 10 May 2024 184 Comments

Happy Friday and happy International Day of Argania! (Also, National Shrimp Day, plus some birthdays: Tonita Peña, Fred Astaire, David O. Selznick, Maybelle Carter, Arthur Alexander, Donovan, Miuccia Prada, Sid Vicious, Bono.) Our community project for today: we’re off to Morocco! Wear a perfume that is named for a place in Morocco, or that reminds you of a (real or imaginary) trip to Morocco, or that features a local ingredient, or ?

What fragrance did you pick? As always, do chime in with your scent of the day even if you’re not participating in the community project.

Me: Parfum d’Empire Azemour Les Orangers, the answer to a goodly percentage of community projects…

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They didn’t want anyone to feel assaulted

Posted by Robin on 10 May 2024 2 Comments

Apparently the smells made the museum very nervous! They didn’t want anyone to feel assaulted by having to endure the scent of human hair from a hat, and so on. Personally, I very much enjoyed the pat-’n-sniff wall in the “Specter of the Rose” gallery, which allows a visitor to release the smells that have been lifted from a Paul Poiret dress and pair of House of Drecoll gowns and embedded in the paint.

— The New York Times reviews The Costume Institute’s spring 2024 exhibition, Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion (for which Sissel Tolaas did the interactive fragrances). Read more in At the Met, Sleeping Beauty Wakes Up in the Chemistry Lab.

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