• About
  • Login to comment
    • Bluesky
    • RSS
    • Twitter

Now Smell This

a blog about perfume

Menu ▼
  • Perfume Reviews
  • New Perfumes
  • Archives

The sector has lost its way

Posted by Robin on 7 October 2016 20 Comments

But she also worries that the sector has lost its way. ‘I feel the true meaning of niche has disappeared,’ she says. ‘That, for me, is authenticity, creativity, showing craft, doing something unique and breaking away from trends. Today, I see none of that. I see groups of people – some from the commercial world – seeing an opportunity to make money and doing a me-too brand of something that already exists in this arena. Niche should be about being different, about standing out from the crowd – and that seems to have gone.’

— Wallpaper (again) on the explosion of niche; the quote is from Lynn Harris (the founder of Miller Harris and Perfumer H). Read more at Eau zone: the makers of niche perfumes explain why uncommon scents are in the ascendant.

Filed Under: perfume in the news
Tagged With: niche perfume

Advertisement


20 Comments

Leave a comment, or read more about commenting at Now Smell This. Here's our privacy policy, and a handy emoticon chart.

  1. rickbr says:
    7 October 2016 at 7:56 am

    I read the article and it seems almost like they have witnessed our recent discussion Robin : )

    Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      7 October 2016 at 8:46 am

      Exactly!

      Log in to Reply
  2. johanob says:
    7 October 2016 at 8:00 am

    It’s a pity they do not verify who their subjects are though.I have no idea who Kilan is,I have heard and purchased products from Kilian though….

    Log in to Reply
    • johanob says:
      7 October 2016 at 8:02 am

      Sorry,but sloppy editorial irks me.

      Log in to Reply
      • Robin says:
        7 October 2016 at 8:47 am

        The mistake is only in the image description though — at least they have his name right in the main text.

        And it irks me too, but I am perhaps more forgiving since I can’t afford an editor either 😉

        Log in to Reply
        • rickbr says:
          7 October 2016 at 8:51 am

          I think this is more a problem of a text that was published without being revised than an editorial problem. But this happens frequently if you are in a rush to publish something and cannot wait until you are not vicious on your text anymore and can then start to see the typos.

          Log in to Reply
        • johanob says:
          7 October 2016 at 10:30 am

          Robin!NST has always been meticulous in my view regarding high quality edit,even the people who comment!That’s why I love your blog and the kindred spirits here.X

          Log in to Reply
          • Robin says:
            7 October 2016 at 12:26 pm

            You are kind, and we do our best, but there are typos here, trust me!

          • Celestia says:
            8 October 2016 at 2:29 pm

            I agree with everything you said, johanob. Best blog out there!

    • Elisa P says:
      7 October 2016 at 3:49 pm

      I can’t help but feel sorry for Vilhelm Parfumerie that was tagged as “Vilhen Perfume” in the photo, though. Unless that’s a different brand I haven’t heard about.

      Log in to Reply
      • johanob says:
        8 October 2016 at 6:47 am

        Haha!I “was” going to mention that as well,but I did not want to come accross as a total bitch….????

        Log in to Reply
        • Elisa P says:
          8 October 2016 at 9:35 am

          Glad to help you out, lol!

          Log in to Reply
  3. cazaubon says:
    7 October 2016 at 9:06 am

    I agree, which is why I am concentrating more on indie/artisan rather than niche when I look for something outside the big commercial brands.

    Log in to Reply
  4. des esseintes says:
    7 October 2016 at 9:07 am

    I see B Y R E D O in flourescent lighting reading that. A businessman seeing an opportunity, pretending to be a perfumer. The same most probably goes for a lot of brands, but I’ve heard Ben Gorham talk perfume and he doesn’t have a clue.

    Log in to Reply
    • rickbr says:
      7 October 2016 at 9:11 am

      I would add to the pretending to be a perfumer the using recycled formulas with bullshit about pseudo personal histories.

      Log in to Reply
      • des esseintes says:
        7 October 2016 at 9:28 am

        Excactly! I heard Gorham go on at length about Byredo’s fragrance ‘Green’ being inspirated by the fragrance his father allways wore. He didn’t name the fragrance, but Green is nothing more than a lesser Grey Flannel.

        Log in to Reply
        • rickbr says:
          7 October 2016 at 9:37 am

          Good to know, since green was one of the few fragrances i found interesting on his line.

          Log in to Reply
    • Ari says:
      7 October 2016 at 10:33 am

      Brand figurehead pretending to be the perfumer is all too common in niche, but I think Byredo has always properly credited its perfumers (Jerome Epinette and my beloved Giacobetti).

      Log in to Reply
    • Dilana says:
      7 October 2016 at 4:35 pm

      Actually I like some of Byredo’s fragrances. (Haven’t tried “Green”. Grey Flannel is a great fragrance, although given the choice, I’d rather pay Target than Barney’s prices).

      Log in to Reply
  5. plume says:
    7 October 2016 at 2:31 pm

    What a silly quote. Someone should inform her of all the young brands who are doing innovative things with fragrance. There’s no shortage of creativity and brilliance, but you have to dig deeper than the usual glut of Byredo, Tom Ford, Malle, Le Labo and the like.

    Log in to Reply

Leave a reply Cancel reply

You must be logged in to post a comment.

Advertisement

Search

Recent reviews

Atelier Cologne Love Osmanthus
Moschino Toy Boy
Arquiste Misfit
Diptyque Eau Capitale
Zoologist Bee
Parfum d’Empire Immortelle Corse
Comme des Garcons Series 10 Clash
Frédéric Malle Rose & Cuir
L’Artisan Parfumeur Le Chant de Camargue
Yves Saint Laurent Grain de Poudre
Régime des Fleurs Chloë Sevigny Little Flower
Chanel 1957
Gallivant Los Angeles
Amouage Portrayal Woman

Blogroll

Bois de Jasmin
Grain de Musc
Perfume Posse
The Non-Blonde
More blogs...

Perfumista lists

100 fragrances every perfumista should try
And 25 more fragrances every perfumista should smell
50 masculine fragrances every perfumista should try
26 vintage fragrances every perfumista should try
25 rose fragrances every perfumista should try
11 Cheap Perfumes Beauty Outsiders Love

Favorite posts

The Great Perfume Reduction Plan
Why I Love Old School Chypres
New to perfume and want to learn more?
How to make fragrance last through the day
Fragrance concentrations: sorting it all out
On reformulations, or why your favorite perfume doesn’t smell like it used to
How to get fragrance samples
Perfume for Life: How Long Will Your Fragrance Collection Last?

Upcoming

List of upcoming Friday projects

6 January ~ damage poll

31 January ~ winter reading poll

Back to Top

Home
Archives
About Now Smell This :: Privacy Policy
Perfume Reviews
New Perfumes
General Perfume Articles
The Monday Mail

Glossary of Perfume Terms
Perfume FAQ
Perfume Books

Noses ~ Perfumers A-E :: F-K :: L-S :: T-Z

Perfume Houses A-B :: C :: D-E :: F-G
H-J :: K-L :: M :: N-O :: P :: Q-R :: S
T :: U-Z

Copyright © 2005-2026 Now Smell This. All rights reserved.