Back when we wrote about our favorite perfumes of 2015, I mentioned the recent proliferation of perfumes that evoke lipstick or other cosmetics — not a new idea, I pointed out, but a trend I can actually enjoy. One example I mentioned was Maison Martin Margiela Replica Lipstick On, which I kept meaning to try and I've finally been able to sample. (Earlier last year, I reviewed a few of the original fragrances from this collection — reviews here and here.)
The description for Lipstick On reads, "Within the intimacy of an apartment, a woman applies the finishing touches to her makeup. A cloud of rice powder lingers around the intensity of crimson lipstick. Lipstick On evokes an age-old ritual in a sophisticated, modern fragrance." Its composition includes top notes of bergamot, heliotrope and neroli; middle notes of orange flower, iris and galbanum; and base notes of tonka bean, bourbon vanilla and patchouli.
I don't know about "age-old" — Lipstick On is assigned a reference-point date of 1952, which was before my time but surely not ancient history. Still, I can see how this perfume is a nod to 1950s feminine glamour and a postwar return to luxury. It's dry and sweet, and its notes tumble out in sequence, just as promised: a breath of citrus, an almond-dough heliotrope, some candied orange-blossom, a powder-puff effect from the tonka and vanilla and a base of creamy woods (not patchouli). There are also hints of raspberry and violet along the way. These notes seem to pop out individually, rather than weaving together as they should. Lipstick On makes me smile, because I happen to love lipstick-inspired perfumes, but it still feels a bit paint-by-numbers to me. Its staying power is about average for an Eau de Toilette.
When I reviewed some of the earlier Maison Martin Margiela Replica scents, I opined that they felt "like dull re-workings of ideas that have already proven to be successful — and, considering these Replicas are priced over $100, you might as well splurge on [the originals]." As much as I'm enjoying my sample of Lipstick On, I'd have to say the same thing. If it's the overall concept that appeals to you, you could opt for the more classically elegant, smoothly constructed Chanel Misia (which has a suspiciously similar list of notes); if you're seeking the violet-pastille scent of vintage cosmetics, try L'Artisan Drôle de Rose or Diptyque Rosaviola. Heliotrope-lovers should head straight for A Lab on Fire What We Do in Paris is Secret.
Basically, although I do wish that the Replica line were available in smaller bottles so that I might own just a bit more Lipstick On, it's just never going to rival Frédéric Malle Lipstick Rose in my affections. If it opens other women's minds to the possibility of "lipstick perfumes," I'm glad; otherwise, I'm still feeling like the "Replica" brand-name is just a little too accurate.
Maison Martin Margiela Lipstick On is available as 100 ml Eau de Toilette ($125).
I agree with you, Jessica..when I smelled this, I was first very happy and it really made me smile. But as hours went on. It turned out a bit flat to me. It was still nice, but not, as fun, as when I put it on.
I do understand if someone loves this, but I need a bit more opfh..like you get in our shared love for Lipstick Rose 😉
I do fancy Misia..but I don’t know if I really want to spent a lot of money on that one either.
My last buy was Chanel’s No 18. It really is lovely 🙂 I would love to see a review on that one 🙂
Exactly! I was so charmed by it on first spritz…but then it just didn’t live up to its promise. I like it for being a bit more “fun” than Misia, but it just doesn’t hold up well and it’s expensive for what it is. I’d rather keep wearing my beloved Lipstick Rose and Drole de Rose and then maybe buy a decant of Misia at some point.
Finally, a perfume trend I can get behind! At least it’s not another cavalcade of g-d ouds. I fell in love with Chanel Misia soon after it came out. I’s just the perfect vintage-cosmetics scent for me: Not too sweet, wonderfully soft and rich. Diptyque Rosaviola was my birthday treat to myself this year. I will look for Lipstick On, though it sounds like it probably won’t replace Misia in my affections.
Yes! Even a lesser-quality lipstick perfume is preferable, to me, than yet another oud-y fruitchouli. I’m so glad you treated yourself to Rosaviola. I’m really enjoying mine. I keep it in my purse at all times!
In the kindest way possible, I do not understand why this line exists. “Dull re-workings of ideas that have already proven to be successful” couldn’t be more accurate. Save that $125 for Misia, Sephora shoppers!
It does feel like an expensive joke. I wonder who’s buying the fragrances, and why. Are most people even familiar with the Margiela name? and yes, when you can get a much better-crafted Chanel fragrance in a beautiful Chanel bottle for basically the same amount of money, why would you grab one of these instead? Is the idea of a perfume as a captured moment/memory really still novel to anyone? So many questions…
Where can one actually try Misia and Lipstick Rose, though? If Maison Martin Margiela is in Sephora, they have the advantage even if they aren’t as good.
I think you are right.
Access is an excellent point. And if women try Lipstick On at Sephora and they fall in love with the idea of cosmetics-inspired perfumes, then that’s all to the good! I just get a little disgruntled by copycats… so I’m hoping the same women might eventually branch out and find some of the “original” lipstick/face powder perfumes. 😉
After reading this, I thought, too bad there isn’t anything analogous in a men’s scent, because men don’t have the same sort of grooming rituals that women do. But then I realized that they do have a very specific historic grooming ritual, and there’s a fragrance that smells exactly like that: the barbershop scent, such as Rive Gauche Pour Homme and (to a slightly lesser extent) Gaultier Le Male.
And then I wondered if there was a women’s analogue to that: a beauty-shop scent. I don’t even know what it would smell like: permanent-wave solution, nail polish, and shampoo? Is there a scent that evokes the beauty shop experience? I honestly have no idea. Anybody?
CandyPerfumeBoy just did a post where he described a hair spray that encapsulates the beauty salon scent to him. I don’t know if that is a smell I would want to wear as a fragrance, however (which is probably why I’ve never heard of a perfume that does it…unless it has spoiled and accomplishes the effect by accident).
Robin wrote that Serge Lutens Bas de Soie smells like vintage hair spray. I think she’s onto something.
Hm! I like that one a lot, although it’s a little too “cool” for my personality. I need to try it again while I’m thinking about cosmetics-perfumes!
I think the top note of Lipstick Rose smells like hairspray and nail polish.
I still love Lipstick Rose so much, even after all these years. I reserve it for weekends and evenings, because it’s just too much for the office, but it will always be a favorite of mine.
Too many beauty “rituals” use horrible smelling chemicals. I have stopped going to salons more than once because I couldn’t stand their smell. The closest thing for me of what you are talking about is the smell that hits you when you enter a fancy department store on the ground floor–a pastiche of perfume, make-up, and elegant leather purses that promises and promises…
Aaahh, love that smell!
Me too!
Yes!
The original JPG Classique was powder and nail polish remover, but I think they’ve toned it down lately.
I agree, it seems to have shifted a little over recent years…but it still has that “fabulously fake” quality.
Barney from FragrantMoments often writes about classic “barbershop” fragrances for men!
For a long time, the smell of AquaNet evoked my teen years of getting ready to go out with friends. hah!
My hopes hadn’t gotten up TOO high, but I was still looking forward to trying Lipstick On, just in case. The iris ended up not really working for me and it reminded me of a lipstick I got once from CVS (and didn’t wear because I didn’t like the smell), but fortunately, I have other cosmetic scents to love.
I like it…it’s sort of fun…but after two or three wearings, it just felt a bit flat to me, and there are better-made options for the same amount of money! Weird. I wonder who the Replica customer is… someone who doesn’t know about niche perfume lines, I guess.
Thanks for the review, Jessica! I’m thinking money saved.
Have you tried fashiony from Smellbent? From what I’ve read, it’s a similar sort of cosmetic/handbag scent with a much better price point. Unfortunately, it’s one of those “limited edition” things buuuut it’s still available which makes me wonder about “limited.”
I should try that! I’ve been meaning to place a Smellbent sample order for ages, actually…
I haven’t tried this one, and I have to confess that I was very disappointed by the smell of Misia. I had hoped it would smell like Chanel’s lipstick (I love the rosey smell of the rouge coco shines, for instance), but it didn’t smells right to me, quite sour if I remember correctly.
I recommend the replica By the fire. Cosy! The other ones havent’ wowed me.