Oud, or (most often) a synthetic chemical resembling its aroma, has established itself as a major fragrance note (and scent category) over the last ten years, but even with all the oud perfumes for sale, few people have smelled authentic oud. I’m guessing most perfume lovers (fanatics) no longer regard oud, or ‘Middle Eastern,’ scents as ‘exotic’ — oud perfumes are just another option in an overcrowded fragrance market. (Personally, I need a break from oud!)

The company SoOud was founded by Stéphane Humbert Lucas of Nez à Nez, who describes himself as a “painter-aesthete” who “writes and sculpts aromas.” The ‘oud’ in SoOud perfumes, if there is any oud in the formulas, is conjured by rich fragrance notes delivered in a Middle Eastern style.

Asmar, “the dusky one,” contains bergamot, white honey, carnation, roasted coffee, amber cigar, Grape marc, amber, tobacco leaf, chamois, musk and vanilla. I like the first minutes of Asmar best: a bold mix of honey and “amber cigar” (a creamy, sweet tobacco note). As the perfume develops, it becomes smoother, more gourmand…

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