The Jordanian desert — and the national flower of Jordan, the black-blossomed Iris petrana — are the inspirations for Odin 04 Petrana, a new unisex perfume created by perfumer Jean-Claude Delville. I think of “desert scents” as being dry and austere — smelling of “wood dust,” pungent grasses, sharp spices, warm incense ash. (Perhaps I’m being too literal?) 04 Petrana is not “gritty,” dry or “hot.” If 04 Petrana conjures anything desert-related, it’s a moist, flowery oasis. 04 Petrana is a lush perfume.

04 Petrana includes fragrance notes of deep purple cassis, pink pepper, herbaceous coriander, black iris, violet leaf, heliotrope, wild orris root, vetiver, and white musk. 04 Petrana opens with sweet cassis (think cassis cordial, not fresh berries); this smooth, sugared cassis note lasts throughout the life of the fragrance and adds a cheeriness to the composition. As cassis calms, I smell whiffs of citrus-y, green coriander, high-quality violet leaf, and an “undulating” and “wet” iris-violet accord (strong one minute, soft the next). The floral aspect of 04 Petrana is augmented with ‘fresh’ heliotrope — a note that complements both the opening floral accord and 04 Petrana’s slightly powdery base of pepper, vetiver, (cedar-y) wood and light musk.

The first time I smelled 04 Petrana it brought to mind another favorite scent of mine…

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