Idylle is the latest feminine pillar from Guerlain, and the first from house perfumer Thierry Wasser, and as such, poor thing, carries with it a fair amount of baggage. I liked Guerlain’s last such effort, Insolence, but would not be surprised to hear that it was not a big seller. I did not like the one prior to that, L’Instant, but would not be surprised to hear that it sold quite well. So.

Insolence made reference to Guerlain’s past and the brand’s famed Guerlinade base.¹ Idylle does not, so we can dispense with that right away. Instead, it offers a “contemporary interpretation” of Guerlinade, based on a “chypre signature of patchouli and white musk”. I’ve gone on ad nauseam elsewhere about the modern chypre concept — which apparently means only that you’ve added a bit of clean patchouli to the base — so I won’t belabor the point here, but I will say that there’s nothing unusual or striking enough about the patchouli and white musk base of Idylle for it to constitute a recognizable brand signature, far from it — it very neatly marks Idylle as a modern department store fragrance…

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