Regina, who thinks of herself as a "perfumista in training", is turning 30 this month, and she'd like to find a new perfume to celebrate the transition. Her dream perfume would be "a sensual evening sort of thing, though not necessarily overtly come-hither". She doesn't need something nobody else wears, but she'd rather find something she won't be smelling everywhere. Here is what we know about Regina:
Regina is a children's book editor, and she lives in Brooklyn.
Her style is more thrift shop than high end.She loves salsa dancing, and her birthday celebrations will include karaoke.
So far in her testing, her two favorites for casual wear are Bvlgari Omnia and Miller et Bertaux Green, green (which she sometimes layers with Miller et Bertaux No. 1). Some of the contenders for her dream perfume are Tom Ford Black Orchid and Black Orchid Voile de Fleurs (although they're a little too sweet and don't hold her interest long enough) and Chanel Bois des Iles (although it's too relentlessly smooth). She also likes "gentle but unusual, not-very-floral-feeling florals" (Hermès Kelly Caleche, Frederic Malle L'eau d'Hiver, Bvlgari Omnia Crystalline), "clear the air perfumes" (L'Artisan Passage d'Enfer & Dzing!, CB I Hate Perfume Russian Caravan Tea), "fragrances with a tart edge" (The Different Company Sel de Vetiver, Chanel Sycomore, Frederic Malle Une Rose), and "cozy/sensual woods" (Kenzo Flower Oriental, Chanel Bois des Iles, Bvlgari Omnia). Notes she likes include mimosa, fig, gourmands (especially chocolate and pepper), woods, musk, smoke, tobacco, and truffle accords.
Regina does not like strong citrus, melon or amber, anything overly sweet or floral, and "whatever it is that Mauboussin for Women and Tom Ford Private Blend Noir de Noir have in common". Other perfumes that didn't work for her include Eau d'Italie Sienne l'Hiver (she liked it but found it unwearable), MDCI Enlevement au Serail (she found it "indecipherable"), Parfums de Nicolai Odalisque (overrripe), Estee Lauder Sensuous (almost good, but gets aggravatingly cloying after an hour), Chanel Allure Sensuelle (too much melon), Frederic Malle Parfum de Therese ("just not me"), Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur ("a bit too much of a one-liner"), 10 Corso Como (ditto), Diptyque Philosykos (lovely but too light), L'Artisan Tea for Two ("too sweet and smooth"), Calvin Klein Euphoria (too sweet and dessert-like), Kenzo Flower (too powdery).
What say you?
Hi Regina
You seem to like some of the perfumes I have on a heavy rotation (Kelly Calèche, L'eau d'hiver, Dzing!) , in the same line, e.g. gentle-cosy-woody, but not too flowery I also wear Iris Taïzo (parfumerie générale), maybe worth a trial?
Bee
Hi Regina, happy birthday!
I do share some of your tastes (both in the “like” and in the “don't like” list). I just found the perfect evening scent: sexy, smooth, not too sweet, and, well, I find it gorgeus. I hope it might be the one for you too.
It's “cuir ottoman” from Parfums d'empire. It has an ambery-resinous dry down, and a leather opening – but all is done in a quiet, refined way, so even if you don't like amber…this might deserve a try!
Have fun at your birthday party!
you might like Heeley Cuir Pleine Fleur ?
now, i am rather a perfumista in training, early training stage that is, but afew things came to mind:
– bvlgari black. it has something weird and smoky to it and it's not something everyone wears. a little rubber and vanilla, but not sweet.
– for a fig with woods, hermès un jardin en mediterranee. it is fresh and fruity and woody and has really good staying power. i adore it (and i also love kelly caleche)
– for woods and warmth, bvlgari eau parfumee au the vert extreme. the cologne version disappears faster than you could say “nice”, but the extreme version stays and stays and stays. at least for me. it is fantastic.
i'll come back if anything more pops up. hope this was helpful!
Wow, this is great, so many good suggestions already. I'm looking forward to trying them, thank you. Except Bulgari Black, which I can't smell at all! I've even gone to several stores, because I thought something must be wrong with the tester, but no, it is my nose. Based on the reviews I am pretty sure this is a great tragedy.
Boy, its a challenge for me to think of woody, smoky scents without much amber! I suggest Sonoma Scent Studio's Fireside Intense, which is a very dry mix of wood, smoke and leather. I also think Zagorsk might be good – winter woods and cool smoke. Regina might also like Miller Harris' Fleurs de Sel — it has a gentle earthiness, not-very-floral feeling florals, and vetiver, which she seems to like.
How about Kenzo Jungle? A little goes a long way, and I've found that any time I wear it, people stop to ask what it is. Hopefully, not because they think it's foul. IN FACT, pre 9/11, I was at the airport, and I had a bottle of it in my bag. When I walked through the security point, the guy said “Maam, please step over here”. He pulled me aside and rooted through my bag until he found the perfume and said “Damn, girl. You smell GOOOD, I'm gonna get this for my lady!!” and he made all of the other people sniff me.
I love that story! I'll have to seek out a sniff of Kenzo Jungle. :))
Dawn
Hello,
I'm on a Manoumalia kick. This fragrance is from the LesNez line and it's just such an unique floral / woody scent. Not cloying at all. Think tropical flowers intermingled with earth. Just perfect.
You can order a sample at LuckyScent.
Happy 30th!
Dawn
FANTASTIC story!
I don't have any referrals. I just wanted to pop in and say that this girl may be my dream girl.
Interest/profession/perfume crush time!
You've already tried tons of wonderful perfumes – lucky new-yorker! – so it's a really tough call! Have you tried the Etat Libre d'Oranges line? Based on your list of notes, you might enjoy Jasmin et Cigarettes, a sheer and slightly edgy floral with a thrilling tobacco/incense twist. Also, be sure to try their wonderful sécrétions magnifiques – which is way more polite and quiet than the picture would suggest. It's a fabulous play on contrasting sensations, warm/cold, soft/edgy, bitter/sweet that could work wonders as an evening scent.. Good luck!
Is that the elephant or tigre?
Hi Regina! I completely agree with the Jasmin & Cigarettes. Also, what about l'Artisan's Piment Brulant for the pepper and chocolate you love? Or is that too light?
What about Sage Onyx for the adult gourmand in you?
Chanel 19 isn't very floral but it is certainly 'grown-up' and sexy. what do you think?
Two more suggestions/questions:
Have you tried Parfumerie General's Jardin de Kerylos? Lovely floral fig; Un Crime Exotique for spicy, peppery gourmandy moments?
These all sounds great! The only one I've tried is Piment Brulant, which I do like quite a bit but yes, it's lighter than what I'm going for. I feel like I have the light/casual category pretty well nailed down for now and am looking to expand the palette. Thanks for the suggestions!
Have you tried any of the Tauers? Incense Rose is a smolderingly sexy, smokey-incense-rose. If I had the money and anywhere to go at night, it would definitely be my evening scent of choice! L'Air du Desert Marocain is also amazing, although I wouldn't pigeonhole it as an evening scent; it's warm and spicey and yet dry as a bone. Another incense to try (oops, do you even like incense?!) is Profumum Olibanum, a lovely incense and neroli blend. For an offbeat smoke 'n' flowers, you might try Breath of God by B Never Too Busy 2 B Beautiful (or some such awful name); it's a more floral version of Tauer's Lonestar Memories. Happy 30th!
Hi Regina, Happy Burpday!
How about Dia by Amouage? It's refined, smooth & elegant. Notes are: Fig, Cyclamen, Bergamot, Tarragon, Sage, Violet Leaves, Bush Peach Blossoms, Rose Oil, Orange Flower, Peony, Orris, White Musk, Incense, Vanilla, Heliotrope, Cedar, Sandalwood, Gaiac Wood
Hey Regina…..and welcome to 30! (feels a bit like 29, doesn't it?)…..I hope you have a fabulous birthday celebration, complete with a few choruses of “Xanadu”.
I'm not sure if you've heard of Michael Storer – he's an independent perfumer in Los Angeles – but I believe his new Winter Star might be a good match for you. It is warm and musky, with balsams and a touch of spicy sweetness – it's slightly gourmand without being cloying. You can check out his website here –
http://www.michaelstorer.com/winterstar.html
Good luck, and again, Happy Birthday –
Marko
Another richer fig would be Premier Figuier Extreme by L'Artisan.
Just discovered Damien Bash Lucifer No 3 – most gorgeous sandalwood scent every – you just need to wait a moment or two for the medicinal opening to blow off. One of the best things I have tried in ages.
Just testing DSH Cimabue following a tip off from Lovethescents – it is a touch spicier than Omnia for sure, but a lovely gourmand comfort scent.
While I correct “every” to “ever” – what about Chanel Bel Respiro, if you like green scents, including Sycomore?
Second the PG JdK, Regina. I think I see what you're really trying to find, though, which is leaning closer to the rich, dark, truffled edginess of the Black Orchid you mention and away from your crisp Kelly-Caleche-like daytime standbys.
I've been looking for the same thing!
I think you might want to try Michel Roudnitska's Noir Epices from the Frederic Malle line. It's dark and rich and delicious but not at all cloying, and it's very, very well-made. The spices are the smooth, warm, melt-into-the-skin kind, and there's lots of lovely wood there, too. I think you might find it has just the kind of balance you're looking for. Happy hunting.
I'll second No 19, and then suggest the following along the same lines (and also real dazzlers to celebrate the big day…): Annick Goutal Heure Exquise, which is a little more sensual in the dry down than No 19, but still just as pretty; and Guerlain's Chamade. Just gorgeous oriental floral that has an interesting spring floral middle. Think sophisticated & womanly.
But I actually think a better choice for your with the woods and smoke for a very special Gueralin would be Vol de Nuit. Amazing and timeless, a real compliment to yourself for the 30…..VdN has what I consider a slightly quiet & introspective floral opening, and becomes very sexy warm smokey leather in the dry down. This can be worn all year round, has a wonderful classy tone, and I think, very sexy. It's the kind of frag I wear for myself, even though other people think is smells good.
I'll second Dia – falling over in a faint – gorgeous!
This is amazing! I hope I'll find time to go back and respond to a few of your questions, but I just want to thank everyone for taking the time to give your suggestions. You are all wonderful.
I have sniffed a few of the Tauers (Lonestar Memories and L'Air du Desert) but found them too harsh for me. I'll have to try the incenses. I do love Breath of God!
Hi Regina – happy birthday! Two more that just came to mind:
Annick Goutal Mandragore, which is a very pretty cologne style floral with pepper and tea notes.
Sarah Jessica Parker Covet – I know I know – but I think you may like the herbal chocolate qualities. It may not be special enough to merit the big 30, but you may like it all the same.
Another green floral w/ vetiver that you may like to try is Givenchy III – very light, classy, elegant, timeless…and the green chypre dry down may be just your thing.
(If you have a chance, even if you don't like them for your birthday scent, I recommend that you try G III along with the Chanel no 19 suggested above, as well as the Annick Goutal Heure Exquise – when you test the three of these side by side, you really can get an education on notes since they are all very analogous to each other: iris, “white flowers”, galbanum, vetiver, oakmoss, etc.) I found the experience to be very educational.
You've got the picture! I've actually got a sample of Noir Epices that I haven't tried yet… very exciting.
Elephant!
I'm just as excited as you are, R! You've really zeroed-in on the very same thing I've been hunting for. I'm with you on so many of your almost-there comments: too linear, too sweet, too not-quite-right.
PLMK what you think of Noir Epices. I think it's one of those ones that might take two or three tries and then you're hooked. That's the way it was for me. For all its depth and complexity and weight, there's something so subtly beautiful about it that I didn't get it the first few times around.
I must say, a generous friend gave me some of Guerlain's magnificent Attrape-Coeur, and that is far and away my new lemming. Oh, and Aedes de Venustas from l'Artisan — oh, my dear Regina, it is scrumptious.
My brain has more suggestions, but I'm drawing a blank. Thank you so much, Robin, for choosing Regina as this week's subject.
Happy B-day Regina! We have similar tastes – you might enjoy Ava Luxe's No. 23, which has a woody base. It's affordable and unique – I always get compliments when I wear it. It's available on her website ava-luxe.com and throug etsy.
thanks! Yet another to try 🙂
Hi Regina, if you cannot smell Bulgari Black, but would like to, you could perhaps try Christian Dior's Fahrenheit. It has that edge to it (I think it smells a bit like crude oil) that really gets your attention, then brings on hay and leather before it finally settles into a smooth, subtle musk. People either love it or hate it (much like Bulgari Black). I find it very sexy. Perhaps it will suit. Happy sniffing!
How funny that you should mention it; I haven't smelled Fahrenheit in YEARS, but my first-ever full bottle purchase, in high school, was Ultima II, which at the time was sort of the lady version because I loved Fahrenheit but it didn't occur to me that I could wear a men's fragrance. (I know, I know.) I found the bottle at my parents' house over the holidays (luckily it had been stored in a dark closet) and still like it – so I will have to try Fahrenheit again.
I will let you know… and you must let me know if you find what you are looking for too, since it sounds like we're on the same quest! Bois des Iles is VERY close for me, have you tried it?
Hello, Regina. Happy Birthday!
I'm thinking L'Artisan's Timbuktu or Dzonghka, or the new Omnia Profumo Granato.
One that is discontinued, but you may be able to find the body products, is Slatkin's Black Fig and Absinthe.
Also, you may want to test Malle's Un Fleur de Cassie, YSL Nu and Hermes Un Jardin Sur le Nil. I tested the new Omnia green one yesterday, but it left me a bit flat. You may want to check it out just in case.
Of course, if you have a lot of birthday money to throw around, Le Labo's Poivre 23 is divine, as is their Gaiac 10. I covet my little decant of the Poivre 23!
I hope this is helpful.
I love the harshness of Lonestar and L'Air, but I can see how that wouldn't be everyone's cup of tea. Do try the Incense Rose — it's smooth and quite insidiously sultry — and give my regards to Brooklyn (ex-Brooklynite here, and I miss it so much!).
I wear a good deal of unisex fragrances, some which clearly fall into the feminine category, but Noir Epices – which I own and wear – just seems extremely masculine to me, and I'm very confused about how this is going to work out. It definitely fits the 'evening' category but .. well, Regina, please post how this works out for you. I can't imagine how it will, but I really don't want to come off like I'm hoping it won't either.
Yes, R., p.p may be right. Did I speak too soon, wax too poetic? I'm having Recommender's Remorse now about Noir Epices. Only one way to find out: try it for yourself and tell us, please!!
Hi Regina!
Maybe try Hermes Eau de Merveilles – it does this not-flowery florals with skin salt and ocean air on top that is really neat. I'm also liking Comme des Garcons 2 as a non-floral floral, and the ink note is a lot more wearable than it sounds like it should be if that makes any sense.
I heartily 2nd Cuir Ottoman! I get beautiful leather and iris. Also, since you like Sycomore, you might like Hermessence Vetiver Tonka. I find it very pretty, but not floral. Good luck!
Yes! Eau de Merveilles is an excellent suggestion.
No remorse necessary, Robin! I am wearing Noir Epices right now and it is definitely the right genre, and also it is great. I am not having that “OMG yes I must smell like this forever” feeling yet, so thanks for warning me that it can take a couple wearings. I keep having great “what's that good smell? oh right it's me!” moments, which is never a bad sign 🙂
Thanks! I'll try it.
Parfumerie Generale #14-Iris Taizo. I too adore Omnia. This just might do it. I absolutely adore this line so far.
I'm going to go out on a limb with two choices:
1. “Voleur de Roses” by L'Artisan (not too floral; the plumminess is reminiscent of a sweeter “Bois des Isles” type woodiness).
2. Givenchy “Hot Couture” (unusual sweetness that's caught by a cumin-esque dryness that tempers the husky magnolia nicely).
I love Jungle too. I have never smelled the Le Tigre and was wondering if anyone else has. What is it like?
thanks for bringing up incense Lilydale, I was wondering if she likes incense too. This may be completely wrong but have you tried any of the ouds from Montale yet? Right now, the only thing I want to wear is a gorgeous bottle of Mysore Sandalwood oil that I got my mitts on. OMG! I forgot how good this is as I haven't smelled real sandalwood for years. mmmmmm.
I WANT Dia NOW! Like I needed another perfume I just have to have!
I was wondering if you ever smelled CDGs Synthetic Series Garage? This is kind of reminiscent of Blvgari Black to my nose. Maybe you will be able to smell this one.
I was just sniffing this at Sephora! My sister wears this; she says it reminds her of a Halloween/witch scratch and sniff sticker she had as a child. Must be the patchouli, licorice and clove. Deliciously noir to me.
I… THINK I like incense? I love Passage d'Enfer but haven't tried too much outside of that.
I have a tiny sample of it and find it soft, a little powdery and milky, slightly citrusy in the opening, with some fruits and spices. It wears very close to the skin.
It's so beautiful, and it is really a “me” fragrance. I try not to think about it and only use my sample once in a while for special. Maybe this year's big xmas expenditure for myself….
Phew!! I feel much better, Regina.
Now I'm REALLY lemming for that exact scent you've got in your mind. I thought that maybe TF PB Japon Noir was IT, and then I thought maybe his Black Violet was IT. . .I really picture a nice, earthy black Mission fig, some rich woods. . .a touch of dark chocolate. . .maybe some cardamom. . .
If I ever find such a scent, R., I'll go back and post here!
Thanks again for your note. Made me feel a lot better. I'm always second-guessing myself that way, and my nose frequently plays tricks on me, so there's room for questioning myself, for sure.
Someone has already mentioned Eau des Merveilles, which was the first thing that came to mind, but there's also Elixir des Merveilles (also Hermes), which is the most adult, mouthwatering, gorgeous gourmand I have ever had the privilege of smelling. Chocolate and orange and salt and mmmmmmmm. If you prefer Eau but find it too light, try the Parfum. Happy Birthday!
I never would've imagined it, but I'm impressed that it's working!
Hm…. I ended up not liking the drydown, so I don't think this is going to do it for me. But definitely the right kind of thing!
Okay, no go on the EN, so — has anyone mentioned Feminite du Bois yet? I didn't think of mentioning it because it seems so obvious, but I know it's not easy to find, so perhaps it's just not in your radar screen? Its deep, cedar and plum beauty might just do the trick. Delrae Bois de Paradis is another obvious warm, woody, fruity-spicy thing, but again, you might roll your eyes at its mention?!
If you're into noir épices, you could give a try to Parfum de Nicolai's New York: it's another very interesting play on the contrast between warm and spicy. As I remember it, noir epices looses its spices and punch as it dries down, and turns into a beautiful but polite velvety wood. Is that what bothers you? New York does maintain its punch through the drydown – probably thanks to oakmoss. Very different but in the same vein, PdeN's Maharanih might also please you.. Good luck! b.
I forgot, still in the same territory, there's also l'idole de lubin! Fantabulous..
Nothing is too obvious – remember, I am brand new! 3 months ago I probably would have said vetiver was a kind of fabric. I'll definitely try to track down both of those.
You have a most precocious nose, Regina! 😀
i agree with jirish–sonoma scent studio has wonderful stuff. all kinds of wonderful stuff. it's worth a sample or two!
This sounds great. It is hard to get in Australia, as is Jungle Elephant. I will have to try to get my hands on this.
I reckon I would smell a few more incenses then. I can't get enough incense perfumes.
wow, you must have a lot of self control to wait that long. I have already started scoping it out. This blog is so expensive. I just had to get that John Hardy leather bracelet that Kevin featured in the Ed Hardy perfume review. I can't wait until I get this!
You're so nice! Everyone here is so nice. So, new idea: I don't think Noir Epices is going to do it, but then I remembered LT saying that POTL A*Maze is somewhere between Une Rose and NE…. so I tried that while I was at Aedes smelling all the incenses people have recommended (sad update: I don't think I like incense after all) and it's kind of, well, a*mazing. Have you tried it? It might not be as dark as what you're looking for and it's VERY rosy, but I think it's terrific. I have somewhat foolishly worn my sample to work, which seems like it might be a firing offense.