Those obsessed with fragrance are familiar with the particular stare some sales assistants give anyone who displays a suspicious enthusiasm for and knowledge of perfumery. “It is made entirely from organic essential oils,” the sales representative might say, and when you reply: “Even the civet?” there is a look of flustered irritation. If you are a woman, the look implies you have taken too seriously the bothersome duty of pampering and perfuming your flesh. But if you are a man, things are much, much worse — you are unnatural.
North Americans have come only recently to the idea that men should smell like anything more than an honest day’s work, or, God willing, soap. Once it was decided that something more was needed, we encouraged young men to smell fresh and elemental, like rocks, wood, mountain air and sea spray. Older gentlemen were allowed to get away with the smell of proper, civilized luxuries…
