Bvlgari released Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert in 1992. It is a unisex cologne created by perfumer Jean Claude Ellena, and the notes are bergamot, orange blossom, cardamom, coriander, pepper, rose, jasmine, green tea, oakmoss, tonka bean, and beeswax.
According to Chandler Burr,
Ellena and his wife Susannah are serious lovers of tea and usually bought at the house Mariage Freres, which at that point hadn't become as famous as it is now. He went often, and loved the smells....and after making his purchases, he would go back to his lab and, all but compelled, write short formulae, the scents he'd been buying running in his head.
The result, Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert, was Bvlgari's first fragrance release. It is the fragrance that introduced what I think of as the Jean Claude Ellena handprint: sheer, minimalist, stripped bare, even, but not in the least dull — the sort of fragrance that Ellena later called "little haiku". The green tea itself is a stylized notion of green tea, as Ellena noted (see the Chandler Burr link above), and it doesn't really smell like any green tea I know, but the accord has become so instantly recognizable as "green tea" that newcomers to the actual beverage might be surprised to find that it doesn't evoke any of the now ubiquitous green tea scented products, ranging from hand wash to candles to bathroom cleaner.
The fragrance itself is very fresh, but happily without any of the huge synthetic ozone/fresh air accord that so often announces fresh. It starts with green-tinged citrus, then a little buzz of smoky tea leaves softens into the green tea accord discussed above. There is a suggestion of jasmine, and a light dusting of cardamom & coriander, two spices that Ellena has used in many of his perfumes. They add some warmth to what is otherwise a very crisp and clean fragrance, and a little hint of sweetness balances the dry woods and oakmoss in the base.
To my mind, there is something sort of sexy about Eau Parfumée, but at the same time, it is a casual scent, and it stays too close to the skin to make a big statement. It has been copied many times, but offhand I can't think of anything that has bested it. The one drawback is the minimal lasting power. If you like it, you'll need the large bottle.
It can be purchased just about anywhere, and is easily found at discount. Froogle will turn up numerous online options.
Definitely a little haiku. Their new Au The Rouge is a more “ornamented” composition, I thought. But then it isn't Ellena's creation, Olivier Polge was the perfumer for that one, right?
You nailed it when you mentioned the subtle sensual aspect of it. It is just a hint, but I notice it too. I think that Osmanthe Yunnan contains the same accord as used in The Vert, with a different ornamentation though.
I have an amusing story about The Rouge, I was in Saks last week and there was a big display for the rouge in the middle of the store. And on top of the display there were 4 bottles. So, I've been wanting to try it for a while now, I grabbed a bottle and sprayed twice on my wrists. I walked away and about 30 seconds later I went to smell my wrist and I thought, “My God thats a light fragrance” And I sniffed again “This is as light as water.” once more a minute later “I think this IS water”
So yes, I sampled BVLGARI's new water inspired fragrance.
So, the bottles were just for show and I left that store still not knowing what the rouge smelled like.
I would have smelled it at the actual fragrance counter, but the Armani Prives got in my way.
MarkDavid – I've had exactly the same experience with Bvlgari's Omnia, only it turned out to be the actual juice! I simply couldn't smell it at all, and was convinced the tester contained water only. I've found all the Bvlgaris 'subtle' to say the least, apart from Black, which seems quite out of character for the line. The Vert is pretty, but it does fade oh so quickly.
I've loved this fragrance since it's inception. It's the fragrance I reach for on migraine-ish days when the stronger scents play olfactory havoc with me. My son invariably comments on how nice I smell when he hugs me while I'm wearing The Vert. For that alone, it would be dear to my heart.
Hey, I'm starting to suspect that you have quite the fragrance collection…
Yes, Olivier Polge, and yes, would agree with “more ornamented” too, although it is still a relatively uncomplicated fragrance. Going to give it another chance one of these days. Wish they'd do a real rooibos scent though.
Omnia is famous for that, although I have no trouble smelling it at all. Its the rest of you that are crazy 😉
Agree, but the Osmanthe Yunnan isn't really sexy, is it? I'm not sure it strikes me that way, anyway.
Aw, that is cute! My son says “Blech” to most everything I wear, unless it happens to be something that smells like cookies 🙂
Omnia is fine, it's actually not light at all for me.
But I'll still accept the crazy comment. It's quite true, really.
That is exactly why I like The Vert b/c I can still wear it if I'm sick and it won't make me sicker. It doesn't go straight to the head like most everything else. Some mornings I just don't feel 100% and I know that the wrong decision could be potentially disastrous by noon, so I reach for this one. I think of all the ones I own, the the vert is probably the only one that I could wear on a non 100% day.
Can't think of anything that has bested it? How about L'Artisan The Pour Une Ete? I think I have commented on this already, I was looking for a cheap_er but acceptable substitute for L'Artisan and headed straight for Bulgari because of the frequent comparisons. I cannot smell any tea and what remains is just blah.
I adore The Pour Un Ete, but don't tend to think of it as a copy of Eau Parfumee, really. Hmmm, not sure why so won't try to justify myself, LOL…
Robin, thanks, that was really interesting! I didn't know that The Vert was the Mother of All Green Teas. I have always wondered about that “green tea” smell which as you note doesn't really smell like green tea! Green tea smells more like hay to me.
Looking forward to the Extreme review — the The Vert is so short-lived on me.
This is a friend's absolute favorite/signature fragrance. Subtly sexy and yet casual is a fairly accurate description of her style too, interesting how in tune some people are with themselves. I don't know that I possess that. But–this is very exciting–what I will soon possess is the Ormonde Jayne sampler set of 9 scents. I'm prepared to be surprised, if nothing else.
One of the problems with smelling the Bvlgari now is that it smells so commonplace. My Method hand wash is even similar 😉
Hope you will like the OJs…just got a comment from someone else who ordered the set and hated every single one of the fragrances. So hope it is a happy surprise, LOL!
R, this is a great fragrance, a real classic. It actually has great staying power on me.
Hugs!
LOL! Did not did not did not. 🙂 Did not hate every single one, just un-enthralled that's all. The florals are all very nice, just not, how do the French say, en gout? Not to my taste? I am not regretting that I ordered it, it was an expansion in my olfactory universe, and you are right, there is no easy classification for Ormonde Woman. I hope VickiK finds her set of Ormonde Jayne {Billy Cristal} “mahhv'lous darling, just mahhv'lous!” 🙂
LOL — “un-enthralled” is actually worse than hating them…it implies that they aren't worth a strong emotional response either way. So I am sticking with “hate every single one” in defiance of the truth 😉
“Delivery” (shipping) was free.
At least for that 😉
Actually, the shipping on full bottles isn't too bad…7 pounds, if I remember correctly. Much better than some other companies charge for overseas.
I tried on the The Vert this afternoon, and was really impressed for the first 30 seconds by how the spices/citrus/tea fragrances mixed together. But within 10 minutes, the fragrance had half disappeared, and by the time an hour had elapsed, I couldn't tell I'd even worn it. So sad. It really was wonderful for about a minute though! Perhaps I should try the extreme version.
Do try the extreme, but it is not the same. Some scents simply do not last, and efforts to make them last change the scent — so all you can do is carry it with you and reapply, or give up entirely.
I had the pleasure of staying at a castle in Florence that used Vert as their house shampoo, conditioner and lotion. I haven't yet tried the actual scent, but the lotion had some staying power. Might be worth layering… Vert is on my wish list – my lotion is getting low!
Thanks so much, I'd never tried the lotion & will have to do that!
I really wanted to like The Vert, but JCE does not seem to agree with my skin chemistry. I could barely even smell this on my wrist. The Blanc on the other hand has all the qualities described for The Vert. It stays transparent and very close to my skin, lasts for hours, and ends up smelling a little sweet with a dash of pepper.
It is true, the musk in The Blanc lasts forever!
I just bought ETV Extreme. Love it! And it actually lasts more than 1 hour!
LOL — so it does. I'll still take the original myself 🙂
Nice to know it's not just me. I was given a large sample awhile ago but never really paid it much attention. Decided to try it this morning – it's already gone off my skin! My hair is still damp from the shower,LOL!!
It is a pretty fragrance, though – just doesn't hold well. Maybe I'll try the Vaseline trick, see if that helps
Citrusy scents like this that DO last tend to be brash, so you have to take your choice. I'd rather just reapply 🙂
have the eau de cologne of The Vert, not the eau de toilette. I love it but have also noticed that I have to constantly reapply it in order to notice it. I do not usually buy eau de cologne (I did not realize that it was not eau de toilette until I checked it after noticing how quickly it faded.) I was thinking of buying a bottle of eau de toilette with the thought that it would last longer. Is this true in your experience?
I'm so sorry but I'll be no help — I've never tried the EdC, in fact, I didn't know there was an EdC. But the EdT is no powerhouse either — you just need to spray more on every couple hours. Spraying on your clothes will also help to extend it, at least a little.
Did anyone have luck on its staying power through layering with lotion ??? Please do share. Thanks !
I like this scent for work as it doesnt disturb concentration, but I dont know how to make it last or whatever else is there which smells neutral – perhaps Eau Cartier Concentree, the blue one, or what…… I have to concentrate at work and cant use strong or obtrusive scents.
Why not just get a travel size & keep some at work to refresh?
Will bring the bottle then.
I was prepared to like this one for its Zen powers of minimalism, but I was really disappointed. I loved the green and citrusy top notes, and they did last more than some top notes do (it took about 20-25 minutes to burn through the citrus on me). BUT. It got to its rose/jasmine/muguet heart and I started thinking, 50's aldehydic florals, been there, done that, now I'm bored. The base, while pleasant, was so faint that I could only smell it with my wrist stuck up my nose. I reapplied 3 hours later (on one wrist so I could put No. 19 on the other), more strongly, and it was the same story: delightful top, dull heart, faint veil of base notes. Sigh. Now I'll have to see if my sister wants this mini.
(I may be the only person in the world to find Joy boring. I like its peachy green top, but I am just not a rose-and-jasmine fan. I find the combination dull. Give me tuberose any day, or frangipani, or jasmine-and-anything-but-rose… or rose-and-anything-but-jasmine…)
Sorry you don't like it! Plenty more out there to love, of course 🙂
It’s my top 3 summer scent:) I prefer this one to any fragrance from ellena’s jardin series.
It really is a great scent. I think I like Sur Le Nil better, but that’s partially because so many other scents copied this one!
Just gotta say that when I first smelled this fragrance (I was gifted two bottles) I was horrified that it smelled like marijuana on my skin! Egads, I was afraid to wear it to my son’s elementary school and didn’t want the association.
Well, apparently I had something hormonal going on, and was just in the middle of an “off” year. This fragrance is beyond delicious. I wear it every day, and cannot wait for that moment when I come home and change clothes and smell that beautiful warm scent on my clothes. Bergamont, pepper, and citrus. I could just lick my wrists!
I’m also glad to read the postings on this site and see that I’m not alone in thinking that this scent doesn’t last. . .but that’s just a price I’ll pay for being transported each time I wear it.
How nice that it’s such a favorite…
I’ve tried this one a couple of times, the first time just on a paper strip, and the second time on my skin. The first time I didn’t get much out of it.. just couldn’t smell much of anything. The second time was a different story. Au The Vert just doesn’t agree with my skin, I think. It was peppery with a plasticky/rubbery note that I found quite unpleasant. I was glad this one is fairly short-lived.
Has anyone done an actual comparison of the OG/reform and can comment on the difference?